To maintain
the mood of last night, John has been reading a blog written by someone who,
when walking the section that we’ll be on today, managed to fall into a marsh!
Colin provides a good breakfast, and also some supplies for our journey, and
sees us on our way. Strange to think that this was one of our first encounters
on the whole walk – if not the first – with someone called Colin and he wasn’t
a cab driver. Today starts with a climb to 1300 feet within the first hour, so
the clothing strategy is not to wrap up too heavily in the light of the
immediate exertions, but to have layers readily available to don as soon as we
reach the ridge before the cold starts to bite. And it proves to be a sensible
strategy, because the temperature at the top is several degrees lower than it
was in Byrness and there’s a bit of a breeze, with occasional light rain,
coming from the east. Bracing at best. It’s an extraordinary landscape. Spectacular
for the short periods when the sky is clear; somewhat forbidding when the
clouds roll in. And always the sense that you’re many miles away from anywhere
and anyone. The route itself is reasonably clear, but it’s quite hard going,
involving frequent rises and falls (albeit not steep), and having to find our
way around some boggy areas or crossing marshes on duckboard which, on most
occasions, proves to be somewhat slippy. Our aim is to walk to Windy Gyle and
then down from the ridge to a car park where we’ve arranged to be picked up.
However, there are a couple of earlier routes down which would involve a longer
(but more predictable) walk along a road to reach the car park. By the time we
reach one of these bale outs – which starts from a mountain refuge shelter near
Lamb Hill – there are varying degrees of tiredness within the party and, having
munched our way through Colin’s provisions in the refuge hut, we decide that
the predictability and higher temperature of the road route is the sensible
option. Having worked our way down to the road, it’s then 3 miles or so to the
car park, skirting the edge of Otterburn Military Camp and passing some soldiers
having what would appear to be a mid-exercise breather. Our taxi is waiting at
the car park and gets us to Newcastle station in time for us to sample the
delights of the Centurion, a former first class passenger lounge which has been
converted into a rather splendid and spacious station bar. Just the one
leisurely and very welcome drink before catching trains home.
Postscript: During the immediately following days, we
decide to follow Colin’s advice and cancel our November trip. Subsequently,
having regard to the distinct possibility of unpredictable weather lasting
until March/April, it is also decided to start our 2017 walks in Coldstream and
to postpone the Windy Gyle/Kirk Yetholm/Coldstream section until late
spring/early summer.
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