Day 103 – Seaham to Hartlepool

It somehow seems strange to have a full English breakfast in an Italian restaurant, and a cracking brekker it is too. We’re away shortly after 8 o’clock and, after a 45 minute stroll along the sea front, we climb up into an area which is reminiscent of some parts of the South West Coast Path. It’s a track through a stretch of woodland above the coast, and involves a series of short descents and ascents in order to reach and cross some narrow inlets from the sea. But after our third or fourth ascent/descent near Horden, and before climbing again, we look out at the shoreline. Lo and behold, the tide times have worked in our favour because the sea is going out and there’s a beach extending for what could be a couple of miles up to the next headland. It would be churlish not to take advantage of this and, as we walk, the tide goes further out so that, by the time we reach the headland, we’re able easily to walk round it and reach another long stretch of bright and almost deserted sand. A glorious way to spend much of the morning because, as it transpires, we’re on the beach for over two hours and, by the time we have to leave it, we’re almost at Hartlepool Golf Club. Once past the course, we’re only a mile or so from the centre of Hartlepool as the crow flies, but we have the time to  maintain purity and keep following the coastline around a headland known as The Heugh to the east of the town and then back towards the centre through a very smart marina where our coastal walk comes to an end. Once again, we’ve completed around 18 miles in about 6 hours and there’s still a couple of hours until our train is due to leave. However, rather than have something to eat and drink at one of the attractive establishments at the marina, we decide to get the walk into town of 20 minutes or so out of the way and have our lunch closer to the station. Initially, this seems to be a very poor decision because the centre is a bit run down and several establishments which might have been bars appear to be shut, or shut down. These include the Hillcarter Hotel which, although relatively modern on the ground floor at least, also looks closed. However, having established that a restaurant along the road, whilst open, doesn’t purvey alcohol, we return to inspect the Hillcarter more closely and discover that there is an entrance to a sprawling – and empty – ground floor bar. It comes as something of a relief that this is able to provide us not only with ciders, but also with sandwiches and chips. And an hour or so later, feeling suitably refreshed, it’s a mere three minutes to the station for the journeys home.   

Day 102 – South Shields to Seaham

Ben and Gary arrive in Newcastle on time and, after taking some sustenance in the station’s Costa Coffee, purchase three Metro tickets so as to maximise our chances of catching the 11:35 to South Shields following John’s scheduled arrival just before 11:30. And although John’s train is delayed by a few minutes (due to a local rattler not vacating a platform promptly), a brisk walk into the Metro station, coupled with John holding the closing train doors for his less speedy companions, results in our objective being accomplished. We get to South Shields around noon, and are under way from the sea front by 12:15. It’s our final two walking days of 2017 and, with an early evening sunset, the aim of reaching our overnight stop in Seaham (some 18 miles away) before darkness falls may prove to be slightly optimistic. However, the storms of recent weeks have thankfully passed through and the skies look reasonably bright as we move southwards. Prospects are improved by an hour or so of beach action on forgiving sand at Whitburn and Seaburn, before we move back up to footpaths at Roker and approach Sunderland on an attractive riverside path alongside the Wear, past part of the campus of the University of Sunderland, and cross the river over the eponymous Wearmouth Bridge. The southern side of the river proves to be somewhat less attractive than its northern counterpart, following streets on the landward side of docks and old industrial estates. However, once we’ve passed through the suburb of Hendon, the route edges gradually back towards the coast. By now, dusk is beginning to fall but the tracks and paths are clearly marked, and we’re soon onto footpaths alongside roads leading into Seaham. We’re staying at a place called Massimo’s, which is an Italian restaurant with a few rooms – and a small bar. Having completed just over 18 miles in 6 hours, the bar has to be our first port of call, although it most likely would have been in any event. Beer and cider (to include flavoured cider) is in bottles only, but is still very welcome. We return to the bar after visiting what prove to be comfortable and well appointed rooms, but soon repair to the restaurant for a good meal, a couple of bottles, and stickies all round. Another 18 miles await tomorrow.