Day 46 – Watchet to Steart

What Bill was correct about yesterday was that the West Somerset would be “basic”. Comfortable enough though, and good value at £35 to include a perfectly acceptable brekker. We’ll be walking along a virtually uninhabited stretch today and so, while Gary admins bill payment, John and Ben access provisions (bananas, pork pies and water) at a local shop. Under way just before 9 o’clock, and John’s logger proves to be more important than ever because today’s route is not the most straightforward we’ve encountered. The section out of Watchet is a mixture of railway footpaths, private holiday parks, roads, tracks across fields, and woods, all slightly away from the coast. We do eventually regain the coastline and conditions which are a mixture of thick wet grass and muddy/heavily puddled tracks, but things progress smoothly until we reach Hinkley Point Power Station. The seaward side which we were hoping to use is inaccessible, and the inland diversion is long and not very well marked. Again, the logger comes into its own (now accompanied by one of Ben’s OS Maps) but the diversion still involves a bit of scramblage and trying to avoid quite large areas of water – not always successfully. Yet again, the weather has been kind – just a few short sharp showers – but, as we finally leave Hinkley Point behind and approach Steart, a biting wind starts to blow and the clouds roll in, making the surroundings very bleak and reminding us how wet our feet are. We’ve been keeping our pre-ordered cab from Bridgwater informed of our progress (or occasional lack of it) and it’s good to see it approaching the meeting point just outside Steart shortly after we get there at 3:45. The wind and clouds could herald the arrival of the severe gales and rain which have been forecast, but all remains calm during our return to Taunton which we reach in time for a can of cider in the station buffet before catching trains home.

Postscript: The severe weather duly arrives in the South West after our departure. Consequences include the destruction of the rail line by the sea at Dawlish along which we’ve travelled so many times during the last 3 years enabling us to walk and complete the SW Coast Path. 

Day 45 Porlock to Watchet

Day 45 Morning – Porlock to Minehead

A change of rail schedules, caused by work to a tunnel beyond Taunton, means a new early morning route for the London contingent – train to Bristol Parkway and then join John on “his train” to Taunton. Terrible recent weather in the South West (evident from seriously flooded fields as we approach Taunton) is supposed to ease during our 2 day visit, continuing the good fortune of the last 3 years. Colin (Bill) from Taunton gets us to Porlock around 10:15 and we’re ready on our first outing of 2014 for the final leg of the path to Minehead. Ben is clearly more than ready, as he treats the long steep climb out of Porlock with something approaching disdain. Gary has one of his “difficult” ascents – so much so that John kindly carries his rucksack for the final section of the incline. No problems thereafter. A dry morning – albeit very wet under foot in several places – and we reach Minehead by 1:30. SW Coast Path duly ticked off. Photos duly taken at the official end/start point and, more importantly, celebratory ciders consumed (with baguettes) in The Quay.

Day 45 Afternoon – Minehead to Watchet

We’re now starting, at 2:30, what is advertised on a Minehead pavement as being the West Somerset Coast Path. It’s raining – shock horror – and, although it’s not too heavy, after we’ve left the roads in and outside Minehead, it’s sufficiently steady as to make conditions on the already sodden ground a tad boggy. Indeed, John comes a cropper at one point, but his fall is “slow” enough that the damage is limited to the increased amount of mud on his kit. But by the time we reach Watchet, we’re all very muddy below the knees and very damp inside the boots. Colin Bill had indicated earlier that the residents of Watchet might be a bit wary of “strangers”, but a very hospitable welcome is received at the West Somerset Hotel. Two ciders before getting ready for supper which is taken at the The Star just around the corner. Not the best food of the trip (being the winter, quite a lot cooked from frozen), but good enough, and although we’re the only customers, the staff are again very welcoming. So much so that we stay for three stickies (doubles of course), before having a fourth when we get back to the West Somerset. We wonder whether this constitutes even more than on the “night of the bottle” at West Bay at the end of day 5?

Day 44 – Lynmouth to Porlock

Day 44 – Lynmouth to Porlock 

News this morning is that Trotty’s left the Ashes Tour because of stress. No stress in Lynmouth on a cloudy but dry day. Good and early brekker enables us to be under way by 8:30, with John’s abandoned hat problem being alleviated by mine host’s provision of an Australian Brumbies rugby cap. His generosity is exceeded by his optimism about the distance to Porlock (8/9 miles is about 4 miles shy of actuality), although his assessment that the only testing part of the walk will be the first hour proves to be pretty accurate. It involves a constant – albeit not too steep – climb out of Lynmouth towards Foreland Point. However, the cliff edge just before the Point proves to be too vertiginous for Ben who decides to take an inland route and meet up again with Gary and John near Glenthorne. This takes place about 90 minutes later just as we’re entering a section along the undercliff, through some woods, and across several picturesque waterfalls. It’s probably a good job that we can stay on the undercliff and cross the waterfalls, because cove descents and ascents wouldn’t have been a particularly attractive proposition. We’re all suffering from colds of varying forms and energy levels are not at their highest! The early part of the woodland walk includes crossing the border from Devon into Somerset, and the later part includes passing what is allegedly the smallest entire parish church in England at a place called Culbone. So far as we know, we haven’t been the victims of tick bites (and possible contracting of lyme disease) which can occur in this area, so yet more good news. As we pass a pub called the Ship at Porlock Weir, we phone Ray to confirm that the pick-up Ship is in Porlock itself, and that the pick-up time is 4:00. A bit of beach (or pebble) action at Porlock Weir and weary traipsing across some fields bring us to the end of today’s – indeed, this year’s – walk and to the lane leading up to Porlock. We’re a mere 8 miles from the end of the path at Minehead, and there’s only one more climb to negotiate. By the time we arrive at the Ship, it’s almost 2:30, but just in time for some sandwiches and with plenty of time for several ciders. Post cards bought and written by Ben and John, and Ray arrives at 4:00 to get us to Taunton station in good time for trains home.  

Day 43 – Combe Martin to Lynmouth

Slightly delayed start due to signal problems at Reading West for the London arrivals, but collection by Martin gets us back to Combe Martin and on our way just before 11:00. It’s the end of November but, yet again, we’ve managed to hit on a perfect day – cool, dry and bright. Sufficiently chilly for varying combinations of hats, scarves and gloves to be worn but, soon after the first climb out of Combe Martin, these are removed and, in the case of John’s hat, left by the path. Much of the early part of today’s walk is slightly inland, but good progress is made and purity is quickly restored well before the steep descent and ascent at Heddon’s Mouth and round to Woody Bay. By the time the afternoon light begins to fade, we’re almost at Lynton. A leisurely stroll down the zigzag path adjacent to the cliff railway (not operating) brings us to Lynmouth, and no difficulty is encountered in finding the Village Inn featuring log fire, family of sprockers, old Christmas number ones on the TV, a solitarty judy walker (who seems to like her beer), and an almost too friendly/slightly gushing mine host. Not wishing to be too radical, a couple of ciders are consumed before freshening up and supper. Mine host arranges for a Colin called Ray to pick us up from the Ship at Porlock tomorrow afternoon. Pretty good pub food with a bottle of red and, on this occasion, John and Ben form the “sticky team” – with Gary being the one to retire early.

Day 42 – Mortehoe to Combe Martin

One of the reasons for rounding Morte Point yesterday was the hope that it might enable us to get beyond Combe Martin today – maybe as far as The Glass Box – and give us a chance of finishing the path in another couple of days. However, after a good breakfast (Ben feeling much better) and early postcard purchase, the first couple of hours walking in steady drizzle over rocky and slippy tracks are all it takes to make it clear that we won’t reach Combe Martin itself until after 2 o’clock. There is therefore no reason whatsoever not to take a lunchtime break in Ilfracombe – after a minor diversion on the approach to the town centre – and try to dry out and warm up over a refreshing glass at the Britannia. John ascertains from the barman that the Pack o’ Cards is the best “meeting place” in Combe Martin, and we arrange to rendezvous there with the almost eponymous Martin at 3:30. The rain eventually eases about half an hour after leaving Ilfracombe, but Gary still manages to come a cropper twice in the space of 10 minutes, following a tumble by John earlier in the day. Some extraordinary notices start to appear at and after Hele Bay to the effect that, because a small section (about 150 yards) of the path around Watermouth Bay is closed, walkers are advised to catch a bus all the way to Combe Martin. There must be an alternative, and so it proves. Some trespassing at Watermouth Farm and conveniently low tide enable us to access the beach and simply cross the Bay by foot. Unfortunately, this doesn’t help in bringing forward our arrival time at Combe Martin. Indeed, following a slightly more significant diversion than our effort at Ilfracombe (John and Gary climb a couple of fences whilst Ben retraces our steps), and a 15 minute walk up the high street, we don’t reach the Pack o’ Cards until 3:15. Still just about enough time to change out of wet clothes and down a pint of cider before Martin takes us back to Tiverton, informing us en route that Combe Martin has the longest high street in the country.

Day 41 – Braunton to Mortehoe

Day 41 – Braunton to Mortehoe

All on time at Tiverton, including Colin (or Martin) who gets us to Braunton for a pre-10:30 start. Early fog gives way to sunshine, and it becomes apparent that our walk around the Taw on day 40 would have been quite picturesque if the weather hadn’t been so miserable. Continuing on the Tarka Trail leads us alongside and across Saunton golf course which prompts thoughts of how many courses we have passed, and will have passed by the time we finish the path. (Suggestions in the teens prove to be gross underestimates when John’s subsequent investigations reveal that the total is around 30.) Warm and bright at Saunton Sands where pasties are consumed by John (Moroccan lamb) and Gary (pork and scrumpy). Ben decides it would be safer to abstain, given somewhat dramatic gastric problems over the previous 30 hours. A few clouds have appeared by the time we reach Croyde but, after rounding Baggy Point and arriving at the start of Woolacombe Sand, the blue skies have returned to sufficient effect for ice creams to be deemed appropriate – again by John and Gary only. Ben’s diet is at present restricted to Lucozade and Kit Kat. The good progress we’ve made in perfect weather over not too challenging terrain continues along the 2 miles of Woolacombe Sand. We’ve therefore decided to keep going around Morte Point and walk into Mortehoe from the Rockham Bay side. (There is a pause at Morte Point itself for John to calculate the distance to Lundy with the assistance of three tee pegs, a compass, his hand span and feet, and similar triangles.) By the time we’ve reached The Smugglers Rest, we’ve covered 20 miles, so it’s good to see the reappearance of Rattler in the bar where the company includes George the boxer (dog), and Budge the parrot. Pre-supper drinks for Ben consist of two Bloody Marys, so he’s clearly feeling a bit better – albeit he retires early after eating but before final glass of red wine and sticky.

Day 40 – Instow to Braunton

Day 40 – Instow to Braunton 

Comfortable rooms and an excellent brekker (all at a reasonable price) prove to be the highlights of the day. The dullest section of the walk so far. Very flat along the Tarka Trail by the bank of the River Taw all the way to Barnstaple, over the new bridge, and back along the other bank to Braunton. And such scenery as there might be is spoiled by a very dank and drizzly morning. The forecast is, in fact, for heavy rain which leads to discussion over whether to stop at Braunton or risk a drenching on the extra 5 miles or so to Saunton Sands. Part of the discussion takes place in the Braunton Inn – about a mile short of the village itself – and the 25 minute “rest” there helps answer the question because, as we then walk towards Braunton, the heavy rain duly arrives. We go no further than the village and catch a bus to Barnstaple where a walk back from the rail station into the town for lunch is a further dampening experience. We decide not to give our custom to the frankly horrible Golden Lion on the square, and instead go to a hotel lounge (The Royal and Fortescue) for a couple of ciders and a sandwich. Then back to the rail station where John and Ben catch a train to Exeter and Gary returns to Instow to stay with Mike and Jo.

Addendum 1  

Unusual facts about days 39 and 40: (1) No Rattler consumed – all cider was Stowford Press or Thatcher’s; (2) No stickies consumed – Wayfarer shutting by 10:00 p.m. rather strange; (3) No Colin taken after 11:00 a.m. on day 39, and bus to Barnstaple was the first use of that form of transport since day 2.

Addendum 2

On the day after day 40, Gary taken by Mike and Jo to Crackington Haven to walk the section to Widemouth Bay which he missed on day 36. Excellent weather and a beautiful stretch of coastline make a welcome change from day 40. Only story worthy of note is being overtaken at the top of the very steep descent of steps at Chipman Cliff by a guy who is running that part of the path. The steps are so steep that you can’t see down them but, by the time Gary has tentatively worked his way to the bottom, the runner is at the top of the equally steep ascent at the other side.

Day 39 – Clovelly to Instow

Diversion and delay of Ben’s and Gary’s train to Tiverton – overrunning engineering works between Newbury and Pewsey – gives John the opportunity to complete the Times crossword although none of us can work out why one particular clue leads to the answer “obeisance”. (Ben explains it a few days later with the help of the Times Crossword Club!) Delay also means that, following taxi to Clovelly (Ian not too chatty on this occasion), we don’t get under way until just after 11:00. Bit of rain in the air and, during the first couple of hours, we only catch glimpses of the sea due to much of the path running through woodland. Far more glimpses of pheasants (or should that be pheasant?) if truth be told. Weather gets brighter, but also very gusty, by the time we reach Westward Ho! and, with the tide high, the waves are pretty spectacular. The gusts also separate Ben from his map (his recovery efforts are conducted with minimal urgency) and cause sand in contact lens problems as we enter the dunes by the golf course. Alongside the dunes we encounter a man in a camper van who wants to know if we’ve seen his cockerel. This is not some dodgy Devon euphemism because we have, in fact, seen said cockerel (outside the man’s van two hundred yards earlier), but we can give no information as to its current whereabouts. The van’s tyres then become stuck in the sand, and John is the only good Samaritan among us who is prepared to help. Gary ascertains from sister-in-law Jo that the Appledore/Instow ferry over the Torridge isn’t operating because of the (supposedly) high winds and so, after we’ve rounded the golf course and Northam Burrows, Jo provides a car service from the Seagate pub in Appledore round to the ferry point in Instow. (This is preceded by a drink in the Seagate and an extraordinary conversation with a surly barman as to why he couldn’t mix two different strength ciders into one pint. Against the law apparently.....we bite our tongues!) Walk from Instow ferry point to the Wayfarer is only a few hundred yards, but saves doing it tomorrow. Freshen up and a drink in the bar before meeting Jo and husband Mike for a more than acceptable supper at The Boathouse restaurant . Return to the Wayfarer at 10:00 p.m. to find the pub closed. (See addendum 1 after day 40.) So straight to our rooms for an early night in preparation for the morrow.

Day 38 – Welcombe Mouth to Clovelly

Day 38 – Welcombe Mouth to Clovelly

Comfortable night, although John announces a further finger-burning incident in his room. Ian arrives at 8:10 (bringing 3 bottles of cider for us) and it’s back to Welcombe Mouth for an 8:45 start. Warm and sunny for the first immediate (and steep) climb of the day, but a bit of cloud cools things down for most of the morning. Lundy far clearer today as we progress to Hartland Quay. The further climbs between there and Hartland Point keep reminding us of the refreshment provided by Ian and, by wonderful happenstance, we encounter a couple (Swiss) sitting outside a camper van in the Hartland Point car park who are able to provide a bottle opener. Their hospitality extends to offering muffins to accompany the cider, and it seems churlish to refuse. Duly refreshed, we set off again after 10 minutes along four miles of relatively flat cliff top, followed by a couple of steep(ish) descents and climbs, before finishing at Clovelly just after 3:00. Slight confusion over how to get down to the harbour side pub where Ian will be collecting us, but speedily resolved – albeit the cobbles of the steep hill down to the harbour aren’t the most welcome of underfoot conditions after a 15 mile walk. However, we arrive at the Red Lion in time for cider and crab sandwiches before Ian’s arrival at 3:40. Ben provides the conversation for Ian in the front seat while Gary dozes and John sleeps (but doesn’t snore) in the back. Get to Tiverton just before 5:00 so not long to wait for trains home

Day 37 – Widemouth Bay to Welcombe Mouth

Day 37 – Widemouth Bay to Welcombe Mouth

Arrival at Exeter to rendezvous with new taxi man who, happily, is called Trevor. Far more efficient than Alf in choice of route back to Widemouth, so trip completed by 11:00 despite a downpour for almost the entirety of the drive through North Cornwall. Fortunately, the rain eases by the time we get under way and, although it returns as we arrive in Bude, this serves to justify the shelter of an early lunch (crab sandwiches and Rattlers) at Life’s a Beach. We leave while it’s still raining rather than having a supplementary “rattle”, and again the rain eases within half an hour and the afternoon walk takes place in relatively fair weather. We get beyond our first possible stopping point at Morwenstow but, following several climbs and descents in quick succession (and early sightings through the murk of Lundy) decide to finish around 5:15 at Welcombe Mouth. Collected by Trevor’s cousin, Ian, who delivers us to Dylan’s B&B in Bude. Mine host a tad irritated by a recently departed guest having smoked in one of the rooms earmarked for us, but we take it anyway. Good supper with Argentine Malbec at the close-by Hebasca – despite John burning a finger on his skewer of prawns – followed by one large sticky (Japanese). 

Day 36 – Boscastle to Widemouth Bay (via Crackington Haven)

Day 36 – Boscastle to Widemouth Bay (via Crackington Haven)

Back on the walk just after 8:45 and, straight away, a navigational glitch gets us onto a narrow ledge on quite a high cliff. Bit of scramblage up a grassy bank and we regain the path, but the next hour or so proves difficult for Gary (not enough water taken on board??) who becomes the first temporary withdrawal from the walk by taking the road to Crackington Haven and avoiding a couple of climbs on the path itself – one later reported to be the longest/steepest of the trip to date. The party is reunited at Crackington’s Coombe Barton Inn and the prudent decision is reached that Gary should remain there and await Alf whilst John and Ben progress towards Bude. Said wait and progress are longer than anticipated due to Alf having health and traffic problems en route. By the time he gets to Crackington, John and Ben have just about reached Widemouth Bay where they’re duly collected. However, the delays have been such that departures from Exeter (again three train with Gary going to Barnstaple) take place around 7:00 p.m. rather than 5:00 p.m. 

Day 35 – Port Gaverne to Boscastle

Day 35 – Port Gaverne to Boscastle

A three train arrival at Exeter with Gary travelling from Teignmouth. LM2 unavailable (wife in hospital) but, through him, have arranged substitute Colin called Alf who gets us to Port Gaverne in time for an 11:20 start. Prefaced, however, by a return to the Port Gaverne Hotel for a pint of Rattler (or a half for the “moderating influencer”). A few climbs when we do get under way and, for the first time for a considerable period, we make a lunchtime stop at the Port William, Trebarwith Strand. No subsequent problem with the remaining climbs past Tintagel and round to Boscastle. The Riverside Hotel is our overnighter and, for once, we freshen up before the first evening cider at a neighbouring hotel. Supper back at the Riverside pretty good, followed by one large sticky and kip.