Day 42 – Mortehoe to Combe Martin




One of the reasons for rounding Morte Point yesterday was the hope that it might enable us to get beyond Combe Martin today – maybe as far as The Glass Box – and give us a chance of finishing the path in another couple of days. However, after a good breakfast (Ben feeling much better) and early postcard purchase, the first couple of hours walking in steady drizzle over rocky and slippy tracks are all it takes to make it clear that we won’t reach Combe Martin itself until after 2 o’clock. There is therefore no reason whatsoever not to take a lunchtime break in Ilfracombe – after a minor diversion on the approach to the town centre – and try to dry out and warm up over a refreshing glass at the Britannia. John ascertains from the barman that the Pack o’ Cards is the best “meeting place” in Combe Martin, and we arrange to rendezvous there with the almost eponymous Martin at 3:30. The rain eventually eases about half an hour after leaving Ilfracombe, but Gary still manages to come a cropper twice in the space of 10 minutes, following a tumble by John earlier in the day. Some extraordinary notices start to appear at and after Hele Bay to the effect that, because a small section (about 150 yards) of the path around Watermouth Bay is closed, walkers are advised to catch a bus all the way to Combe Martin. There must be an alternative, and so it proves. Some trespassing at Watermouth Farm and conveniently low tide enable us to access the beach and simply cross the Bay by foot. Unfortunately, this doesn’t help in bringing forward our arrival time at Combe Martin. Indeed, following a slightly more significant diversion than our effort at Ilfracombe (John and Gary climb a couple of fences whilst Ben retraces our steps), and a 15 minute walk up the high street, we don’t reach the Pack o’ Cards until 3:15. Still just about enough time to change out of wet clothes and down a pint of cider before Martin takes us back to Tiverton, informing us en route that Combe Martin has the longest high street in the country.

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