One of the reasons for rounding Morte Point yesterday was
the hope that it might enable us to get beyond Combe Martin today – maybe as
far as The Glass Box – and give us a chance of finishing the path in another
couple of days. However, after a good breakfast (Ben feeling much better) and
early postcard purchase, the first couple of hours walking in steady drizzle
over rocky and slippy tracks are all it takes to make it clear that we won’t
reach Combe Martin itself until after 2 o’clock. There is therefore no reason
whatsoever not to take a lunchtime break in Ilfracombe – after a minor
diversion on the approach to the town centre – and try to dry out and warm up
over a refreshing glass at the Britannia. John ascertains from the barman that
the Pack o’ Cards is the best “meeting place” in Combe Martin, and we arrange
to rendezvous there with the almost eponymous Martin at 3:30. The rain
eventually eases about half an hour after leaving Ilfracombe, but Gary still manages to
come a cropper twice in the space of 10 minutes, following a tumble by John
earlier in the day. Some extraordinary notices start to appear at and after Hele Bay to
the effect that, because a small section (about 150 yards) of the path around Watermouth Bay is closed, walkers are advised to
catch a bus all the way to Combe Martin. There must be an alternative, and so
it proves. Some trespassing at Watermouth Farm and conveniently low tide enable
us to access the beach and simply cross the Bay by foot. Unfortunately, this
doesn’t help in bringing forward our arrival time at Combe Martin. Indeed,
following a slightly more significant diversion than our effort at Ilfracombe
(John and Gary
climb a couple of fences whilst Ben retraces our steps), and a 15 minute walk
up the high street, we don’t reach the Pack o’ Cards until 3:15. Still just
about enough time to change out of wet clothes and down a pint of cider before
Martin takes us back to Tiverton, informing us en route that Combe Martin has
the longest high street in the country.
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