Day 90 - Kielder to Byrness

And, indeed, it is farewell to the west coast mainline. Fortunately for Ben and Gary, this means getting a train over an hour later than the 06:43 from Euston which they’ve so far caught for all of this year’s walks. Today it’s the 08:00 from King’s Cross which arrives at Newcastle just before 11:00. Unfortunately for John, he still needs to leave Cheltenham on the 07:10 and doesn’t get to Newcastle until 11:30, but at least no change of trains at Birmingham is involved. Ben and Gary while away their 40 minute wait at Newcastle by having a late breakfast at a platform Costa outlet, and early lunchtime sandwiches are then purchased on John’s arrival. Our Geordie Colin (Ronnie) is in the station entrance hall to greet us and drive us the hour or so back to Kielder. The Anglers Arms is open, but it isn’t difficult to resist its attractions and set off through the Kielder Forest Drive. As its name implies this is, for the most part, a narrow road through the forest, so it’s a gentle and straightforward walk which rises gradually, and eventually emerges from the trees reaching a height of 1500 feet at Blakehope Nick. The weather’s fine, but a bit dull and therefore, although the views from the top are pretty good, they’re not extensive. As we start the descent, the road becomes narrower and, having become accustomed to a seemingly non-problematic route, we miss a track off to the left which leads to Byrness. The resulting diversion adds a mile or so (and a couple of very damp fields) to our walk and we arrive in Byrness as darkness falls. A circuitous route around the village brings us to the Green and our overnight accommodation, the Forest View, which is essentially a hostel with food and a small bar, catering principally for walkers. Our host, Colin, immediately takes our boots and other damp clothing to his drying room, and we accept his offer of a cup of tea, and still have time for showers, before the bar opens at 6. We’re the only people staying tonight, and Colin is the only person “front of house” (his wife, Joyce, having to deal with a family bereavement). It transpires that he’s more than a little accustomed to hosting people who walk the Pennine Way, a relatively short section of which we will be experiencing tomorrow and on our planned final trip of the year in a few weeks time (November). And not only hosting them, but also arranging for them to be collected from the ridge of the Pennine Way, occasionally in a none too healthy condition. Colin’s very firm advice is that we should reconsider our plans for November because, by that time, the weather will be so unpredictable as to be dangerous, with conditions in Byrness (or places at a similar level) being no indication of what might lie in wait on the ridge itself. It’s because of this that he doesn’t take guests from November to March. Anyway, despite stories of white outs, hypothermia and accidents (at least one involving a body bag), we have a relatively enjoyable evening meal – and a calming sticky to follow the wine.