The
consensus is that this is not so much a "boutique" establishment (as
advertised) but more a pub with well furnished and decorated rooms. The
breakfast isn't too bad, but perhaps a tad disappointing given that The Farndon
is one of the most expensive places at which we've stayed. Still, it has the
great advantage of convenience, avoiding the cost of Colin yesterday evening
and this morning. Just a few minutes' walk back down the High Street to the
bridge and the beginning of a day when, for most of the time, the Dee Way
actually follows the banks of the...er...Dee which today has mist rising from
it on a beautifully crisp, sunny morning. The first six miles are along the
east side of the river past a fish farm (where our navigation goes slightly
awry) and, to quote the estate agent wording of the guide book, "featuring
riverside wooden chalets of various designs" (nice). To check the Farndon
owner's comment yesterday evening about water levels, we've done our own very
basic calculation of the movement of "ap atom" (long story) from the
source of the Dee. However, the accuracy of that calculation does depend on
having a vague idea of the length of the river, and all our estimates prove to
be embarrassingly wide of the mark. A more reliable check is through a visual
inspection which reveals that, on this topic at least, the owner may have known
what he was talking about - the river level is now very high. We pass Aldford
and cross to the west of the Dee where the next hour of the walk is on a path
between the river and the boundary of the Eaton Estate, the not inconsiderable
family home of the Duke of Westminster. The side of Chester to which the path
eventually leads also seems quite prosperous - boathouses, riverside
bars/restaurants and smart looking houses - and, after passing bridges leading
into the city centre, we reach our second racecourse (London buses?), the
Roodee. And it doesn't simply involve a "good view" of the course
like yesterday, but a semi-circumnavigation on a path along the back straight
and behind the stables. After a brief discussion about how far to walk in order
to maximise convenience/timings on our next trip, we go through the Old Port
and a short way along the Shropshire Union Canal towards Saughall. Short enough
that we can walk back to the centre in 30 minutes, stopping at a pub on the
road to the station which is of such a "standard" as to make us
abandon it after one pint and sample the delights of the station buffet
instead. Sufficient time there for a cider and sandwiches, and sufficient time
on the train to share half a bottle of red before John disembarks to change
trains at Crewe, and Ben and Gary continue (with further half bottles of red)
to London.
Day 61 - Overton Bridge to Farndon
Back to our
full complement for the next couple of days, although no immediate plans for
Gary to do the sections he missed on days 59 and 60. Early start, with everyone
getting to Birmingham shortly after 8:00. Unfortunately, due to lack of admin
coordination during the preceding few weeks, neither Ben/Gary nor John is aware
of their similar arrival times at New Street and arrangements have been made to
meet not there but at Stafford. Track side problems delay this rendezvous - and
the onward journey to Crewe/Chester - by half an hour or so but eventually, and
courtesy of Colin from Chester station, we reach the pub at Overton Bridge
(which is summarily eschewed) and are "on piste" just before 11:30.
For the most part, a wholly unremarkable day's walking under grey skies along
an ill-defined and largely non-signposted route. It seems that John is
constantly having to consult the logger to determine the direction we should be
taking across what prove to be rather wet fields. Also, very little is seen of
the Dee itself which keeps meandering, in a series of U-bends, away from the
walk, and/or is shielded by embankments. And when it does come into view, its
level seems surprisingly low. So perhaps just three points of anything
approaching note. First, a brief and early pit stop at the Royal Oak just
outside Bangor-on-Dee for beer and crisps during which it is established that
the time previously given by John for today's sunset is about 35 minutes later
than actual sunset, so we'll need to get a wiggle on to reach Farndon before
nightfall. Secondly, we get a good view of Bangor-on-Dee racecourse, and
realise that it's the first currently used racecourse (i.e. excluding the
former Kington racecourse on day 55) which we've seen during all of our days
walking. And thirdly, despite the efficiency of the logger, we take the wrong
route across one particular field and, in trying to rejoin the so-called path,
we cross a grassy area which is so wet that we occasionally sink to almost knee
level. As a result, Ben's and Gary's socks and feet become exceedingly damp - a
fate from which John is saved by his "fetching" puttees. However, in
the final hour of the day on the approach to Holt, we at long last join a path
alongside the river which eventually brings us to the bridge in Farndon from
where it's only a short stroll up the High Street to our overnight resting
place, imaginatively called The Farndon. A cheery welcome from the owner
includes the opportunity to start drying our footwear in front of a log fire
whilst we take on board the first beer of the evening. The owner certainly
likes to chat, but some of his rather confused comments about the local beers
lead us to question how much of the chat has any foundation! When we mention
the low level of the Dee, he says that a period of heavy rainfall (which
occurred over the weekend) doesn't affect this stretch of the river for about
36 hours. We'll be able to test the accuracy of this tomorrow. In the meantime,
baths and showers (John's shower apparently not of the highest standard) and
good food and wine are followed by a comfortable night.
Day 60 (still no Gary): 5 September 2014 Near Oswestry to Overton Bridge
Taxi Johnny from
the previous day picked us up promptly after a decent breakfast at the b and b
adjoining then pub, where we had spent the night. We were redeposited at our
crossroads and were under way by 8.40. Plenty of time to make our day’s
destination, the Cross Foxes at Overton
Bridge, where we were to be collected
at 3 30 by Taxi Johnny, with plenty of time to make the train in Chester. Despite managing
to take the wrong path almost straight away, we were soon back on track and
making good progress northwards. Today was the day we were to say goodbye to
the Offa’s Dyke walk (who wants to go to Prestatyn anyway) and strike off
northeast along the Dee. Although this was the
one thing we had to worry about, we naturally managed to miss the turn we had
intended to make, shortly before Chirk, but got back on track quickly enough.
Our planned
route involved a crossing of the Ceiriog, whose north bank we followed for a
section that splendidly took us under the viaducts for the Llangollen Canal
and the railway, then a pleasant section along the canal before, crossing a main
road, we were on the Llwbyr Maelor
Way and on the last leg to Overton Bridge. Still plenty of
time…but when we were around the Ceiriog/Dee confluence, we managed to go wrong
by staying too close to the river. One of John’s cross-country recoveries,
involving much scrambling through brambles and bracken and up slopes that
challenged Ben’s vertigo (hypnotherapy or not), we eventually got back on
track. We were now a bit short of time, but a frisky load of bullocks enabled
us to get through Flannog farm briskly enough, and after a rather easier
stretch along the Dee, and the old helpful short cut, we made it to the pub at Overton
Bridge
with twelve minutes in hand.
Our travails
were not done yet, however. Taxi Johnny was nowhere to be seen and had to be
summoned from Oswestry. His confident demeanour began to wear a little thin as
he decided to take us to Chester
station through the clogged middle of the city, spurning the rather
empty-looking by-pass. We were both booked onto a particular train, John so
that he could do a nifty change at Milton Keynes Central and see Gloucester’s
first game of the season at Northampton. Missing the train would have been a
disaster (although John may wish he’d missed the game: Gloucester lost 53 -6: tries by North (3),
Pisi, Burrell (2), Fotuali’i and Fisher).
We made it by
just over a minute and were grateful for the red wine freely (as in readily not
gratis) available at buffet car. 16.3 miles in 6 hours, 40 minutes.
Day 59 (no Gary) – 4 September 2014 Pool Quay to near Oswestry
Despite Gary’s enforced absence
looking after his mum, John and Ben went ahead with the walk on 4/5 Sept.
Perhaps surprisingly, Ben managed to get the right train at Euston and
negotiate a change at Birmingham International. John then joined him at Birmingham New Street
and the depleted party arrived in good order at Welshpool station (the one that
serves a by-pass) soon after 10. Taxi Johnny deposited us at the pub at Pool
Quay, which at that hour had more of an excuse for not being open than usual, but
a search of the outside revealed no trace of Gary’s guide to the Offa’s Dyke
Path (north). A nasty-sounding dog put us off asking at the door.
A pleasant if
unremarkable couple of hours along the canal and by the Severn
(which at that point is describing a long clockwise turn and flowing east – we
left it eventually and struck north again), eventually took us to Four Crosse.
Here for the first time on that day we managed to get a bit lost, in a cemetery
of all places from which we eventually emerged by retracing our steps to find
Parson’s lane. Another bit of canalside action, and since it was rather warm,
with nine miles under our belts we decided to reward ourselves with a lunch
stop a – the Dolphin at Llanymynech where we doubled the lunchtime crowd and,
remarkably reduced its average age. The pub did us a good sandwich though.
The walk after
lunch was more undulating – we climbed up around the side of a hill and were
soon crossing Llanymynech golf course, possibly more
famous for being Ian Woosnam’s home course than the fact that Ben had played
there once on a cricket tour. Some quite demanding ups and downs, not helped by
a sign for ice creams put up by children who turned out to have consumed their
stock, brought us to Moelydd Uchaf. A
fine crest with commanding views. From
there it was downhill all the way to the end of the day’s walk just before 6
30: the crossroads of the path with
theB4580, where Taxi Johnny from Oswestry (more about him on day 60) was soon
persuaded to turn up and take us to our designated pub at Whittington. Total
distance 18.7 miles in 7 hours 5 minutes.
Day 58 - Montgomery/Brompton Crossroads to Pool Quay
......The
guy behind the bar has delegated the cab finding to the lady behind the desk
this morning but, by 7:30, she has been unable to complete the task having
received no reply from the numbers she's called. News is that Robin Williams is
dead - or perhaps not "news" for John who doesn't know who Robin
Williams is. But over a good breakfast we are given the more immediately
important news that, in the absence of cabs, our breakfast chef Hayley will
drive us back to Brompton Crossroads. The forecast is for showers throughout
the day and the first one - both brief and light - arrives during the first
half hour as we cross farmland to the east of Montgomery. With no sign of the
Australian couple coming the other way, we continue along flat stretches, and a
first is "achieved" when Gary manages to fall through a cattle grid
(thankfully not deep), thus somewhat belatedly fulfilling the predictions 45
years earlier of less than encouraging school "friends" before cross
country runs. A heavy shower arrives but, once again, it's reasonably brief and
proves to be the final one we encounter. Once through Lynmore Park and over the
River Camlad (another well known waterway after the Unk of yesterday), we
encounter a few climbs through the Leighton Estate - where there's a further
minor cross-track error - and up to the Beacon Ring hill fort. However,
although longer ascents than yesterday's, they're not as steep and are
generally along estate roads and broad tracks, so not too problematic. Indeed,
the consequent 1,000 feet descent through fields into Buttington is, if
anything, more testing. We've decided to continue beyond Buttington to Pool
Quay, first because we have the time to get another couple of miles ticked off
and secondly because the Powis Arms at Pool Quay seems to be an appropriate
stopping point. A cab is booked to take us from there to Welshpool at 2:30 and an
ETA of 2:00 will afford the time for a relaxed cider or two plus a bite to eat.
At least that's the theory. After crossing Buttington Bridge and some fields,
and walking for a mile or so alongside the Montgomery Canal, we arrive at the
Powis Arms on schedule - only to find it closed. However, a quick phone call
gets the cab to us in 5 minutes and we're in Welshpool by 2:15 after a journey
which, whilst of the same distance as the one yesterday evening, costs £10
less. We're dropped at the "Old Station" which, conveniently, is
adjacent to the current/new station and, just as conveniently, purveys bottles
of cider and sandwiches. Rather inconveniently, Gary realises that he's left
the Trail Guide somewhere - probably in the garden of the Powis Arms - but, a
couple of bottles of cider and a sandwich later, it's time to walk over the
bridge (Ben armed with the remnants of his second bottle) to catch the train(s)
home.
Day 57 - Knighton to Brompton Crossroads/Montgomery
Ben and Gary
travel via Newport and John joins them at Hereford for the rest of the journey
to Ludlow and then, courtesy of Colin/Carwyn (actually Owen) to the George and
Dragon in Knighton. Subject to an earlier heavy shower in Newport, there's no
evidence of the tail end of ex-hurricane Bertha - a breezy day, but dry and
generally bright. We set off from the George and Dragon just before opening
time, so no temptation to delay what could be a testing 15+ miles to Brompton
Crossroads (see Guide's description - day 56 above). Things start with a
longish climb to the top of Panpunton Hill and, soon afterwards, a
"cross-track error" when we don't take heed of the Guide's warning
that the "path is easy to miss" and duly miss a downward track
through some gorse towards a white cottage. When realisation dawns, we decide
not to retrace our steps and, instead, reach the cottage by ploughing downhill
through some of the waist high local flora. We pass Garbett Hall - our
originally proposed end point on day 56 - after 90 minutes or so walking, and
continue around Llanfair Hill to Springhill. Not long afterwards, we see the
Offa's Dyke midpoint signpost showing that we are 88.5 miles from both Sedbury
Cliffs and Prestatyn. This is also around the start of the series of short but
steep climbs and descents which will make our progress to Brompton Crossroads -
and the Blue Bell Inn - a tad slower than would otherwise be the case. We
eventually emerge through the arched gateway of Mellington Hall and the short
road to the Blue Bell at about 5:50 - conveniently close to opening time.
However, even after phoning the Dragon Hotel in Montgomery where we're staying
to ask them to arrange for a cab to collect us by 6:30, we still need to alert
the landlady to our presence before the doors of the pub are opened. It
transpires that she has been in charge of the establishment since 1966 but,
despite her taking a little bit of time to get our drinks, and the cab arriving
closer to 6:20 than 6:30, there's time and inclination to get through a couple
of ciders before we leave. The cab has, in fact, come from Welshpool - the
Hotel's usual local cabbie (Colin Montgomery??!!) being unavailable due to a
recent stroke. As a result, although it's a mere 3 miles from the pub to
Montgomery, we're charged the princely sum of £15 for the journey. Our earlier
swift two ciders dissuade us from having another immediately after check-in.
Instead, after freshening up and changing, we move straight to glasses of wine
before supper - in the company of an Australian couple who now live in
Gloucestershire and who are walking the Dyke from north to south. We exchange a
few experiences of our respective routes and overnight stops and, given that
the couple finished their day to the north of Montgomery, we half anticipate
that our paths will cross early tomorrow. We restrict supper to just a very
substantial main course - plus a bottle of red - after which Ben retires
leaving John and Gary to have a double and single sticky respectively whilst
trying to arrange a cab for tomorrow morning. The guy behind the bar says he'll
see what he can do.......
Day 56 - Old Radnor/Lower Harpton to Knighton
Just 1-0 to
Argentina after extra time, and good sleep. Gary (in socks....very silly) slips
down wooden stairs on his way to breakfast, but this in no way affects our view
of The Harp as the best place we've stayed so far. And an opinion which is not
expressed because John has promised to send to Angela a link to this blog! Come
on - great views, comfortable rooms, excellent food - including breakfast -
wonderful hospitality, free safety pins, and our own private taxi service from
Lower Harpton last night and back there this morning. What's not to like?
Having said farewell to Angela, we set off for Knighton, and possibly beyond.
It soon becomes apparent why the Official Trail Guide rates the Kington to
Knighton stretch as "the most enjoyable day's walk of the whole
path". Some spectacular scenery alongside the Dyke, over the Lugg Valley
and back towards Hergest Ridge. Although the terrain is quite undulating, the
climbs aren't particularly steep and therefore, and with no places to
"detain" us en route, we make pretty good time to Knighton golf
course and down a pretty steep hill into the town. We had thought of continuing
to Garbett Hall - about 3 miles further on at the beginning of a section which
the Guide describes as "the toughest part of the whole route". The
prospect of ticking off those miles now is attractive, but careful
consideration in the George and Dragon leads to the conclusion that, given the
location of available stopping points next time, an extra 3 miles today isn't
going to increase our future progress. Besides, it's pretty hot and we need
also to test the hospitality of the Horse and Jockey. Before doing so, we check
the availability of public transport to Ludlow station, but establish that a
cab between us isn't going to be much more expensive. We have an hour to while
away, but the Horse and Jockey proves to be somewhat dilatory with a not
particularly complex food order - i.e. baguettes, which we only just manage to
finish before being picked up by Owen the cab. Owen informs us that the Ludlow
Brewing Company is conveniently close to the station....it has to be done.
There are six types of beer but, helpfully, they can be served in third of a
pint measures for sampling purposes. We sample all six before deciding rather
prosaically to have a pint of best to wash down a healthy afternoon snack of
pork pie and scotch egg. A slightly earlier train than originally planned from
Ludlow avoids delay on the later service and ensures that we all get home
smoothly.
Day 55 - Hay-on-Wye to Lower Harpton/Old Radnor
We meet up
again at Evesham. As a result of his late departure time from home, John has
had more than sufficient time for a bacon sandwich. Ben and Gary need to slum
it and take on board a sausage roll whilst waiting at Worcester for the
connecting train to Hereford. Quite a long cab ride to Hay - and in a break
with tradition, John has an in-car kip on the outbound journey. We arrive
around 11:15 and, after resolving the important question of our official start
point (the car park or the Blue Boar) we wend our way down to the Wye and over
the fields to Clyro. The woods through Bettws Dingle provide welcome shade from
the sun before the more open fields leading to Newchurch. A couple of climbs
between Newchurch and Gladestry are eased by some comfortable turf underfoot
and, to afford yet more comfort, there's the temptation (not resisted) of the
Royal Oak at Gladestry. Our arrival at afternoon closing time doesn't mean that
our ciders have to be rushed, and we leave with springs in our steps
(relatively speaking) which help the climb up to the moorland of Hergest Ridge.
Past the site of the former Kington racecourse, and by this stage Gary is
having to make disturbingly frequent adjustments to his below waistline attire
due to the detachment of the button at the top of his shorts. In Kington itself
- which isn't as much of a toilet as Gary has previously banged on about -
there's a short debate about whether we should indulge in a further reviver.
The decision not to means that we'll almost certainly get a lift from Lower
Harpton to Old Radnor which has been kindly offered by our hosts at The Harp,
but conversely, the hill out of Kington is now distinctly more challenging than
the post-cider hill out of Gladestry. It leads to Kington golf course which is,
apparently, the highest in England at almost 1,300 feet. The next couple of
inclines, Rushock and Herrock hills, are walked round rather than over, so the
final mile or so of the day is pretty easy going. However, it's still something
of a relief shortly after getting to Lower Harpton, to see a car driven by
Angela from The Harp arriving to pick us up - even more of a relief when we
realise, from the comfort of the car, the distance to The Harp. And what a
location when we get there. Having walked around the south west coast it seems
strange to say that the views (over the Radnor Valley) are probably the best
we've experienced at any of the places where we've stayed. To take full
advantage, we have a drink outside in the early evening sunshine before
showers/baths and supper. And, even after the views, we're not disappointed by
the rooms, the food and the hospitality - Gary even obtains a safety pin for
his mobile shorts. Just the one sticky this evening, although it is preceded by
a port with our cheese. Unlikely that tonight's Argentina v Holland World Cup
semi-final will match the entertainment of last night's Brazil v Germany game,
so no need for sleep to be delayed by the footie.
Day 54 - Pandy to Hay-on-Wye
Good
breakfast and provision of chocolate and apples for the day ahead confirm that
the Rising Sun would probably feature in the top five establishments at which
we've stayed. Today's walk is not as taxing as we thought it was going to be.
After the need to cross (very carefully) the Newport to Hereford railway line,
it starts with a long ascent into the Black Mountains, ultimately to 2,300 feet
- the highest point on the Path - but the weather is dry, and also cooler than
yesterday, and the climb isn't particularly steep or testing under foot. So we
manage it without undue difficulty and with the help of plenty of water and
snacks. The path itself up to Hatterrall Hill and the ridge beyond is pretty
featureless, but some of the views are spectacular. (These do not include Ben
taking the first "dump au naturel" of the walk - there isn't a more
delicate way of phrasing it - in the disturbingly close proximity of some
sheep.) With perfect timing, the sun only appears when we've completed the
climb and are approaching Hay Bluff. We therefore work up a bit of a sweat on
the long descent into Hay-on-Wye where the Blue Boar is conveniently located
for reviving purposes, and a relaxed lunch and postcard/admin session, before
catching a bus to Hereford station. Train to Worcester, where we change for
John to get to Evesham and Ben and Gary to continue to London.
Day 53 - Monmouth to Pandy
Ben and Gary
travel to Monmouth by train (to Newport) and cab, and John travels purely by
cab. Remarkably, we arrive outside the Robin Hood within a few minutes of each
other, around 10:15. The entertainment from John during the early part of
today's walk is a series of 12 questions about the 1970's which, when posed in
yesterday's edition of "Pointless", apparently secured a record high
score of 600 (i.e. all wrong answers) from the 6 participating contestants. The
author's modesty precludes him from recording the outcome of the questions
being asked this morning, although the person who secured 12 correct answers
didn't participate to any noticeable extent in the subsequent discussion about
a tax issue. Anyway, back to the walk itself which is along a very picturesque
and not too testing route. A few inclines and some short sections along roads,
but essentially through fields close to or alongside the River Trothy, and with
a couple of villages (Llantilio Crosseny and Llangattock-Lingoed) to pass
through. Good progress is made, but a warm day combined with a desire not to
reach our overnight stop too early, renders it advisable - if not necessary -
to pause a while in the late afternoon sunshine at the Hunter's Moon Inn at
Llangattock-Lingoed where we meet a couple of other people who are walking the
same stretch of the Trail as us today and tomorrow - and staying at the same
place overnight. They leave the Hunter's Moon before we do because our
"pause" is one of about an hour which translates into a couple of
ciders. Strangely, on the succeeding short stretch of the walk to Pandy, Gary
falls off a plank into a shallow ditch, Ben doesn't spot a rather large hole in
a field and almost trips over, and John nearly comes a cropper at a stile.
These incidents do not prevent us from having a further cider when we get to
the Rising Sun at Pandy, and yet another after we've freshened up and are
ordering supper. Initial impressions of the Rising Sun are very favourable -
comfortable rooms with copious free-flowing hot water in individual en suite
facilities. Supper, with bottle of wine and followed by sticky, does nothing to
change these impressions but, as always, then having a second sticky is
probably a mistake!
Day 52 - Tintern to Monmouth
News of the morning is that Nigel Davies has left Gloucester - shock horror. Good breakfast, a bright morning, and beautiful scenery as we leave Tintern - once again eschewing Offa's Dyke and following the Wye Valley route as far as Bigsweir. However, on leaving Bigsweir, we take an uphill road and paths which eventually lead to the Dyke trail. Through woods and a small plantation, we emerge into a field, and a steep descent into Redbrook. It's late morning, but a conveniently located pub (definitely The Boat) is open, and discussion is brief before we decide to take advantage of its hospitality. Ben and John sample a cider taken from a barrel "round the back" of the bar, the strength of which is such as to render the possibility of a second being deemed a potential impediment to our onward journey. This proves to be fully justified, first in terms of steadiness (the journey once more follows the banks of the Wye along a narrow and occasionally slippy path), and secondly in terms of timing (our arrival at the shelter of a bridge coincides with a short, but very heavy, rain shower). Typically efficient advance admin by John has established that a bus from Monmouth shortly after 3:00 p.m. should get us to Newport in time for our trains home, and enable us to repeat our Carwyn-free achievements of days 49 and 50. We arrive in Monmouth in time for a leisurely lunch opposite the bus station at The Robin Hood pub, the bus arrives on schedule, and there are no delays in getting to Newport. However, our train is delayed by 15 minutes and, just prior to its arrival, Ben announces that he can't find his ticket. His unsuccessful attempts to find it (by retracing his steps back to the barriers) mean that he almost misses the train but, having boarded, he then finds the ticket in some "folds" in his pocket. The train delay also means that John misses his intended connection at Bristol, but at least he can share a half bottle of red in the buffet and has only half an hour to wait for a later train at Parkway. Otherwise, incident free returns home.
Day 50 - Clevedon to Avonmouth
Early brekker
not a problem for Best Westin hotels - and it's "buffet style" which
is probably a first among the 25 establishments where we've so far breakfasted.
In fact 7:00 a.m. seems to be a popular time for many of the residents -
probably because most of them put the three of us in the youth policy category.
When we check out, the woman on the desk says that there's been a coach party
staying, from "somewhere up north", but is happy to acknowledge that
to her almost anywhere east of Bristol is "up north" - particularly when
John points out that the coach parked outside is marked "Epsom
Coaches". Once again, a very pleasant start to the walking day. Indeed,
the first couple of hours towards Portishead are reminiscent of the SW Coast
Path - close to the water, along woodland tracks, and past a few groupings of
holiday homes. Then, beyond the newly developed marina complex after Portishead
Point, it's inland diversion time once more - this time to get round Portbury
Dock to the Avonmouth Bridge. This includes skirting a couple of huge outdoor
compounds filled with new cars, but the walking is pretty easy, much of it
being along bridleways and cycle trails. But eventually we approach the M5 and
the Avonmouth Bridge. As the bridge comes into view, it seems that crossing it
might be a test not so much of Ben's recent hypnotherapy sessions, as of John's
and Gary's resolve. Indeed, a fleeting moment's consideration is given to
walking into Bristol along the river instead. However, courage is screwed to
the sticking place, and the bridge is crossed in about 20 minutes without undue
concerns. Bring on the Severn Bridge next time......!! Ben has attempted to
lure Jenny out to meet us for a lunchtime drink, but finishing an essay is of
more immediate importance to her. A shame, but at least we can delay a decision
on where to finish/lunch and how to get to Parkway station. The decision is, in
fact, made quite quickly - i.e. shortly after getting over the bridge and into
Avonmouth where, at the station, a train is about to leave for Temple Meads. We
decide to catch it and then take another train to Parkway. This gives more than
enough time for a spot of lunch in a very impressive buffet at Temple Meads and
for us to establish (a) ways of returning to Avonmouth via Parkway on the next
trip and (b) that this has been the first occasion on the walk so far when we
have not taken a cab at any stage during a two day trip. The train we catch
from Temple Meads continues beyond Parkway through Cheltenham, so John stays on
board when Ben and Gary change at Parkway for the connection back to
Paddington.
Day 49 - Weston-super-Mare to Clevedon
During the
previous 48 days, we've missed a couple of "outbound" connections
because of late train arrivals at Exeter, and one return journey due to
ailing/delayed Colin at Widemouth Bay. It may be slightly surprising that,
until now, none of us has done - or omitted to do - something which has
resulted in failure to catch a train, but it's certainly surprising how that
run is broken this morning. Ben arrives at Paddington in time for the outbound
journey , but then boards the wrong train. The consequence is far more
significant in terms of expense for Ben than delay to the walk. His arrival at
Weston is only half an hour after John's and Gary's and we're all at the sea
front by 10:15. It soon becomes apparent that there are a few unnecessary items
in the bagging areas, namely waterproofs which we've all brought but which,
contrary to forecasts during the last few days, are unlikely to be required. A
pleasant enough start to the day along the coast outside Weston but then,
around mid-day and just before St Thomas's Head, we start a series of inland
diversions to get round/over the Rivers Banwell and Yeo. The early afternoon
route also involves crossing and re-crossing the M5. John's not entirely
serious suggestion that we wait for gaps in the traffic at least has the effect
of managing expectations, and the fences, tunnel, fields and footbridge which
we actually negotiate seem relatively tame. We eventually regain the coast
shortly after Kingston Seymour and, by 4:30, are approaching our overnight stop
at Clevedon. We decide against pre-arrival sharpeners (the pubs we pass aren't
all that tempting) and get to the Walton Park - a Best Westin Hotel - around
5:00. The bad news is that the bar doesn't open until 6:00. The good news is
that drinks can be ordered and brought to us in the lounge - a facility of
which we take advantage twice, in the welcome form of a couple of pints of
cider each. After changing, and taking the view that the dining room might be a
bit too formal, we have supper in the bar - a window table with views over the
Avon and Clevedon Pier. Pretty good food too (burger/steak pie/fish)
accompanied by further ciders and two bottles of red. Cheese and biscuits to
end the evening, along with a sticky each for John and Ben.
Day 48 - West Huntspill to Weston-super-Mare
Excellent - and
early - brekker, with a bit of flak directed at the one person who goes for
just the "full-ish" English, rather than the Full Tudor English.
We're collected by Clare at 8 a.m. and she takes us back to the Parrett end of
the path at West Huntspill, so we're walking well before 8:30. A misty morning,
and a bit damp under foot with the river quite high. But after an hour or so,
and having wended our way through the lanes of Highbridge, high tide has gone
and, once we've passed what is advertised as being Britain's shortest pier at
Burnham on Sea, we can walk along the beach. Indeed, in ever brighter
conditions as the sun burns off the mist, we walk a long way along the beach -
about 5 miles from Burnham, through Berrow, and along to Brean. Just before
noon, we reach the end of the sand at the foot of the cliffs of Brean Down and,
at the National Trust cafe, we stop for pasties (very good ones) which are
accompanied by.....mugs of tea! Truly, a couple of days replete with
extraordinary events. A gentle climb up the cliffs and an equally gentle walk
around Brean Down passing Brean Fort at the far end. How we now get to
Weston-super-Mare depends on where we can cross the River Exe. Brean Sluice, a
couple of miles upstream has been identified as a possibility but, as we get
into the second mile, the riverside field path becomes rougher indicating less
than regular use. So it's no real surprise that, when we reach a field gate
alongside the sluice and a caravan park, we're informed by a farmer that we've
been walking over his land, and that the gates on either side of the sluice are
locked. However, the farmer is sanguine about the situation ("It happens")
and, at that moment, an Environment Agency van appears. We ask the driver
whether he can open the gates for us to walk across the sluice. His initial
reaction is no - so it looks as though we'll have to take a far longer inland
route to Weston via the main road. But just as we're heading for the caravan
park, the van driver calls us back and unlocks the gates so that we can walk
over the sluice. All in all, a few minutes of chat and reaction which have been
somewhat different to those with the vet yesterday! The walk back downstream
towards Weston is unremarkable until, just before Uphill Church, John pulls up
lame with a shooting pain in an ankle. Gradually, when some pain killers have
got to work and we've rounded the marina, things seem to improve, and we stroll
for a mile or so along Weston beach, finishing before 4:00 at the Seaquarium.
Like yesterday, we've walked almost 20 miles which, since our days on the
Thames Path, is the most we've done on a second day. There's still plenty of
time to walk to the station and have cans of cider in the station bar before
John catches a rattler for a change of trains at Temple Meads, and Ben and Gary
get a direct train back to Paddington.
Day 47 - Steart to West Huntspill
Train to
Bridgwater - via Temple Meads - where we are collected by the same Colin (or
Clare) who drove us from Steart to Taunton on the last trip. We arrive at
Steart in time to get under way around 10:15. Study of the log later in the day
shows this to be our earliest walking start time since day 1 of the SW Coast
Path. Shortly after leaving Steart, a throw away remark by Gary about the level
of the Thames a few days earlier leads to lengthy and ultimately inconclusive
discussion about tides, the equinox, gravitational pulls, and the valves and
ends of rugby balls. The discussion lasts for a goodly part of our morning walk
down the south/west side of the River Parrett. Although the level of the river
is low, there's unsurprisingly extensive evidence of the effects of the recent
floods. We arrive (back) in Bridgwater early afternoon, and lunch consists of
pies and sausage rolls purchased at a local shop, and eaten on the hoof. Light
rain accompanies part of our return up the north/east side of the Parrett,
which includes carefully considered - and wholly justifiable - "short
cuts" across (or denobbings of) a couple of curves in the river at Dunball
and Pawlett Hams. Our subsequent attempts to regain the river via some fields
at Stretcholt are met with the resistance of a local vet who appears from his
surgery to inform us in no uncertain terms that there's no way through to the
river at the far side of the fields and that he doesn't want us scrambling
through his hedges to try and get there. After he's bid us a not too fond
farewell, and having consulted maps, we decide to go and point out to him that
our intended route is shown as being a public right of way. However, as we
approach his surgery, we encounter one of his colleagues who is more helpful,
simply saying that she hasn't seen anyone go over the fields before and
pointing out the route which is usually taken to get back to the river. We
therefore decide (some more reluctantly than others!) that we should avoid
further veterinary confrontation and follow the "usual" route. Back
by the river, it's not too far to the end of our walk for the day at the top of
a path leading to West Huntspill where the Crossways Inn and pints of rather
strong Rich's cider are an excellent way of whiling away the 20 minutes before
Clare picks us up and returns us to Bridgwater and the Tudor Hotel. Baths are
hot and reviving, and ciders and supper follow. We've walked almost 20 miles
today which is more than we've achieved since the Kimmeridge to Chipperville
(Weymouth) stretch on day 3 of the SW Coast Path. John reckons it's the first time
he's underestimated our likely mileage for a day. And this probably accounts
for the next point of note, namely what we believe to be our record low for
evening alcohol consumption. Just two pints of cider each (including the Rich's
at Crossways), one bottle of red between us, and no stickies. But we sleep
well!
Day 46 – Watchet to Steart
What Bill
was correct about yesterday was that the West Somerset would be “basic”.
Comfortable enough though, and good value at £35 to include a perfectly
acceptable brekker. We’ll be walking along a virtually uninhabited stretch
today and so, while Gary admins bill payment, John and Ben access provisions
(bananas, pork pies and water) at a local shop. Under way just before 9
o’clock, and John’s logger proves to be more important than ever because
today’s route is not the most straightforward we’ve encountered. The section
out of Watchet is a mixture of railway footpaths, private holiday parks, roads,
tracks across fields, and woods, all slightly away from the coast. We do
eventually regain the coastline and conditions which are a mixture of thick wet
grass and muddy/heavily puddled tracks, but things progress smoothly until we
reach Hinkley Point Power Station. The seaward side which we were hoping to use
is inaccessible, and the inland diversion is long and not very well marked.
Again, the logger comes into its own (now accompanied by one of Ben’s OS Maps)
but the diversion still involves a bit of scramblage and trying to avoid quite
large areas of water – not always successfully. Yet again, the weather has been
kind – just a few short sharp showers – but, as we finally leave Hinkley Point
behind and approach Steart, a biting wind starts to blow and the clouds roll
in, making the surroundings very bleak and reminding us how wet our feet are.
We’ve been keeping our pre-ordered cab from Bridgwater informed of our progress
(or occasional lack of it) and it’s good to see it approaching the meeting
point just outside Steart shortly after we get there at 3:45. The wind and
clouds could herald the arrival of the severe gales and rain which have been
forecast, but all remains calm during our return to Taunton which we reach in
time for a can of cider in the station buffet before catching trains home.
Postscript: The severe
weather duly arrives in the South West after our departure. Consequences
include the destruction of the rail line by the sea at Dawlish along which
we’ve travelled so many times during the last 3 years enabling us to walk and
complete the SW Coast Path.
Day 45 Porlock to Watchet
Day 45 Morning –
Porlock to Minehead
A change of
rail schedules, caused by work to a tunnel beyond Taunton, means a new early
morning route for the London contingent – train to Bristol Parkway and then
join John on “his train” to Taunton. Terrible recent weather in the South West
(evident from seriously flooded fields as we approach Taunton) is supposed to
ease during our 2 day visit, continuing the good fortune of the last 3 years.
Colin (Bill) from Taunton gets us to Porlock around 10:15 and we’re ready on
our first outing of 2014 for the final leg of the path to Minehead. Ben is
clearly more than ready, as he treats the long steep climb out of Porlock with
something approaching disdain. Gary has one of his “difficult” ascents – so
much so that John kindly carries his rucksack for the final section of the
incline. No problems thereafter. A dry morning – albeit very wet under foot in
several places – and we reach Minehead by 1:30. SW Coast Path duly ticked off. Photos duly taken at the
official end/start point and, more importantly, celebratory ciders consumed
(with baguettes) in The Quay.
Day 45 Afternoon –
Minehead to Watchet
We’re now
starting, at 2:30, what is advertised on a Minehead pavement as being the West
Somerset Coast Path. It’s raining – shock horror – and, although it’s not too
heavy, after we’ve left the roads in and outside Minehead, it’s sufficiently
steady as to make conditions on the already sodden ground a tad boggy. Indeed,
John comes a cropper at one point, but his fall is “slow” enough that the
damage is limited to the increased amount of mud on his kit. But by the time we
reach Watchet, we’re all very muddy below the knees and very damp inside the
boots. Colin Bill had indicated earlier that the residents of Watchet might be
a bit wary of “strangers”, but a very hospitable welcome is received at the
West Somerset Hotel. Two ciders before getting ready for supper which is taken
at the The Star just around the corner. Not the best food of the trip (being
the winter, quite a lot cooked from frozen), but good enough, and although
we’re the only customers, the staff are again very welcoming. So much so that
we stay for three stickies (doubles of course), before having a fourth when we
get back to the West Somerset. We wonder whether this constitutes even more
than on the “night of the bottle” at West Bay at the end of day 5?
Day 44 – Lynmouth to Porlock
Day
44 – Lynmouth to Porlock
News this morning is that Trotty’s left the Ashes Tour
because of stress. No stress in Lynmouth on a cloudy but dry day. Good and
early brekker enables us to be under way by 8:30, with John’s abandoned hat
problem being alleviated by mine host’s provision of an Australian Brumbies
rugby cap. His generosity is exceeded by his optimism about the distance to
Porlock (8/9 miles is about 4 miles shy of actuality), although his assessment
that the only testing part of the walk will be the first hour proves to be
pretty accurate. It involves a constant – albeit not too steep – climb out of
Lynmouth towards Foreland Point. However, the cliff edge just before the Point
proves to be too vertiginous for Ben who decides to take an inland route and
meet up again with Gary and John near Glenthorne. This takes place about 90
minutes later just as we’re entering a section along the undercliff, through
some woods, and across several picturesque waterfalls. It’s probably a good job
that we can stay on the undercliff and cross the waterfalls, because cove
descents and ascents wouldn’t have been a particularly attractive proposition.
We’re all suffering from colds of varying forms and energy levels are not at
their highest! The early part of the woodland walk includes crossing the border
from Devon into Somerset , and the later part
includes passing what is allegedly the smallest entire parish church in England Taunton
Day 43 – Combe Martin to Lynmouth
Slightly delayed start due to signal problems at Reading
West for the London Woody Bay Gary
Day 42 – Mortehoe to Combe Martin
One of the reasons for rounding Morte Point yesterday was
the hope that it might enable us to get beyond Combe Martin today – maybe as
far as The Glass Box – and give us a chance of finishing the path in another
couple of days. However, after a good breakfast (Ben feeling much better) and
early postcard purchase, the first couple of hours walking in steady drizzle
over rocky and slippy tracks are all it takes to make it clear that we won’t
reach Combe Martin itself until after 2 o’clock. There is therefore no reason
whatsoever not to take a lunchtime break in Ilfracombe – after a minor
diversion on the approach to the town centre – and try to dry out and warm up
over a refreshing glass at the Britannia. John ascertains from the barman that
the Pack o’ Cards is the best “meeting place” in Combe Martin, and we arrange
to rendezvous there with the almost eponymous Martin at 3:30. The rain
eventually eases about half an hour after leaving Ilfracombe, but Gary Hele Bay to
the effect that, because a small section (about 150 yards) of the path around Watermouth Bay Gary
Day 41 – Braunton to Mortehoe
Day
41 – Braunton to Mortehoe
All on time at Tiverton, including Colin (or Martin) who
gets us to Braunton for a pre-10:30 start. Early fog gives way to sunshine, and
it becomes apparent that our walk around the Taw on day 40 would have been
quite picturesque if the weather hadn’t been so miserable. Continuing on the Tarka
Trail leads us alongside and across Saunton golf course which prompts thoughts
of how many courses we have passed, and will have passed by the time we finish
the path. (Suggestions in the teens prove to be gross underestimates when
John’s subsequent investigations reveal that the total is around 30.) Warm and
bright at Saunton Sands where pasties are consumed by John (Moroccan lamb) and Gary Rockham
Bay
Day 40 – Instow to Braunton
Day
40 – Instow to Braunton
Comfortable rooms and an excellent brekker (all at a
reasonable price) prove to be the highlights of the day. The dullest section of
the walk so far. Very flat along the Tarka Trail by the bank of the River Taw
all the way to Barnstaple, over the new bridge, and back along the other bank
to Braunton. And such scenery as there might be is spoiled by a very dank and
drizzly morning. The forecast is, in fact, for heavy rain which leads to
discussion over whether to stop at Braunton or risk a drenching on the extra 5
miles or so to Saunton Sands. Part of the discussion takes place in the
Braunton Inn – about a mile short of the village itself – and the 25 minute
“rest” there helps answer the question because, as we then walk towards
Braunton, the heavy rain duly arrives. We go no further than the village and
catch a bus to Barnstaple where a walk back
from the rail station into the town for lunch is a further dampening
experience. We decide not to give our custom to the frankly horrible Golden
Lion on the square, and instead go to a hotel lounge (The Royal and Fortescue)
for a couple of ciders and a sandwich. Then back to the rail station where John
and Ben catch a train to Exeter and Gary
Addendum 1
Unusual
facts about days 39 and 40: (1) No Rattler consumed – all cider was Stowford
Press or Thatcher’s; (2) No stickies consumed – Wayfarer shutting by 10:00 p.m.
rather strange; (3) No Colin taken after 11:00 a.m. on day 39, and bus to
Barnstaple was the first use of that form of transport since day 2.
Addendum 2
On the
day after day 40, Gary taken by Mike and Jo to Crackington Haven to walk the
section to Widemouth Bay which he missed on day 36. Excellent weather and a
beautiful stretch of coastline make a welcome change from day 40. Only story
worthy of note is being overtaken at the top of the very steep descent of steps
at Chipman Cliff by a guy who is running that part of the path. The steps are
so steep that you can’t see down them but, by the time Gary
Day 39 – Clovelly to Instow
Diversion and delay of Ben’s and Gary’s train to Tiverton –
overrunning engineering works between Newbury and Pewsey – gives John the
opportunity to complete the Times crossword although none of us can work out
why one particular clue leads to the answer “obeisance”. (Ben explains it a few
days later with the help of the Times Crossword Club!) Delay also means that,
following taxi to Clovelly (Ian not too chatty on this occasion), we don’t get
under way until just after 11:00. Bit of rain in the air and, during the first
couple of hours, we only catch glimpses of the sea due to much of the path
running through woodland. Far more glimpses of pheasants (or should that be
pheasant?) if truth be told. Weather gets brighter, but also very gusty, by the
time we reach Westward Ho! and, with the tide high, the waves are pretty
spectacular. The gusts also separate Ben from his map (his recovery efforts are
conducted with minimal urgency) and cause sand in contact lens problems as we
enter the dunes by the golf course. Alongside the dunes we encounter a man in a
camper van who wants to know if we’ve seen his cockerel. This is not some dodgy
Devon euphemism because we have, in fact, seen
said cockerel (outside the man’s van two hundred yards earlier), but we can
give no information as to its current whereabouts. The van’s tyres then become
stuck in the sand, and John is the only good Samaritan among us who is prepared
to help. Gary
Day 38 – Welcombe Mouth to Clovelly
Day
38 – Welcombe Mouth to Clovelly
Day 37 – Widemouth Bay to Welcombe Mouth
Day
37 – Widemouth Bay
Arrival at Exeter North Cornwall . Fortunately, the rain eases by the time
we get under way and, although it returns as we arrive in Bude, this serves to
justify the shelter of an early lunch (crab sandwiches and Rattlers) at Life’s
a Beach. We leave while it’s still raining rather than having a supplementary
“rattle”, and again the rain eases within half an hour and the afternoon walk takes
place in relatively fair weather. We get beyond our first possible stopping
point at Morwenstow but, following several climbs and descents in quick
succession (and early sightings through the murk of Lundy) decide to finish
around 5:15 at Welcombe Mouth. Collected by Trevor’s cousin, Ian, who delivers
us to Dylan’s B&B in Bude. Mine host a tad irritated by a recently departed
guest having smoked in one of the rooms earmarked for us, but we take it
anyway. Good supper with Argentine Malbec at the close-by Hebasca – despite
John burning a finger on his skewer of prawns – followed by one large sticky
(Japanese).
Day 36 – Boscastle to Widemouth Bay (via Crackington Haven)
Day
36 – Boscastle to Widemouth
Bay
Back on the walk just after 8:45 and, straight away, a
navigational glitch gets us onto a narrow ledge on quite a high cliff. Bit of
scramblage up a grassy bank and we regain the path, but the next hour or so
proves difficult for Gary (not enough water taken on board??) who becomes the
first temporary withdrawal from the walk by taking the road to Crackington
Haven and avoiding a couple of climbs on the path itself – one later reported
to be the longest/steepest of the trip to date. The party is reunited at
Crackington’s Coombe Barton Inn and the prudent decision is reached that Gary Exeter (again three train
with Gary going to Barnstaple )
take place around 7:00 p.m. rather than 5:00 p.m.
Day 35 – Port Gaverne to Boscastle
Day
35 – Port Gaverne to Boscastle
A three train arrival at Exeter
with Gary Riverside pretty good, followed by one large sticky and
kip.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)