Day 160 – Sandwich to St Margaret’s at Cliffe: 16.4m: 5.7h

The team has reverted to its standard complement of 4, with John and Mike making their customary rail journeys to London and joining Ben and Gary at St Pancras. The train to Sandwich is slightly delayed en route but, by the time we arrive, the early morning rain has disappeared and the clouds seem to be lifting. We find our way to the point where the last walk ended, and set off just after 11:30.

For the first hour, we walk north east alongside the River Stour and reach the coast back at Pegwell Bay. It’s now developing into a bright and comfortably warm day and, as we turn south, the breeze is at our backs. The next couple of hours take us alongside Prince’s, Royal St George’s and Royal Cinque Ports golf courses, and it’s only at some point between the latter two that we reckon that we’re further south than our starting point. The sun is out, affording great views back over the bay towards Ramsgate and Broadstairs, and prompting the occasional glance towards the seemingly large number of attractive pubs as we pass through Deal. However, recognising that we are still 6 or 7 miles away from our overnight destination at St Margaret’s at Cliffe, we are not tempted to tarry, and press onwards past Deal Castle and then Walmer Castle which apparently houses a pair of original Wellington Boots – the eponymous Duke having been a resident of the castle as Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports.

Shortly before 4 o’clock, we reach Kingsdown where we anticipate that the only way of continuing along the coast will be via the cliff top. There is a path beneath the cliffs but this comes to an end after less than 10 minutes and we have to return to some steps going up the cliffs and a road leading out of Kingsdown. Because of his discomfort with heights, Ben has already identified an inland route which will avoid the cliffs, and Gary decides to join him. The two of them accordingly set off along the road whilst John and Mike go up the steps. We tentatively plan to meet at the Smugglers, the local pub in St Margaret’s at Cliffe, where we hope to arrive soon after 5 and where we’re due to eat later in the evening. Ben and Gary make good progress. After a few hundred yards walking along the road, they’re able to take a very pleasant cycle path which leads all the way to St Margaret’s and results in them arriving there on schedule. Unfortunately, the Smugglers doesn’t open until 5:30. In the meantime, John and Mike are taking slightly longer to navigate the perhaps more taxing cliff route. Ben and Gary therefore continue to our overnight stop, the Parkdean Resort, a holiday park which includes a hotel. They check in, send a message to John and Mike with the happy news that the hotel has a bar and to take their orders, and settle down with ciders to await their arrival. This isn’t long delayed, but the ups and downs of the cliff route, culminating in a climb of more than 200 steps from St Margaret’s Bay, have clearly been a bit more tiring than ambling along a cycle path. Drinks, and a follow-up round, are quickly dispatched.

We weren’t sure what to expect from a holiday park hotel, and the cost of our overnight stay is somewhat less than we have paid on many previous trips. However, the Parkdean rooms are spacious, clean and comfortable and, after showers/baths, we reconvene and make our way to the Smugglers for supper. And an excellent supper it proves to be. Not the standard pub fare. Ben and John opt for the fresh fish of the day which is bouillabaisse, and Mike and Gary go for cider belly pork and garlic parmesan chicken respectively. The usual bottles of white and red serve as accompaniments. Ben, Mike and Gary then indulge in a large cheeseboard which includes a glass of port each, whilst John chooses a chocolate torte which doesn’t include, but which he supplements with, a glass of port. We return to Parkdean where Ben goes straight to his room. John, Mike and Gary are not too far behind him despite first returning to the bar for a double Jamesons and the occasional glimpse at Forest v Villa on the TV (a 1-1 draw).