We’re all assembled just after 7 o’clock in the kitchen where John and Helen are cooking breakfast – without beans. An excellent start to the day. The weather forecast is for rain but, although there are some pretty large puddles on the ground when we leave the house, no rain is falling. Helen drives us back to the Plough and Sail, and we set off at 8:30 but, 20 minutes later, we’re back at the Maltings. The path which we’ve chosen, whilst close to the river, is not particularly well trodden, becomes more and more muddy and, as it transpires, is merely part of a spit of land between the river and a small inlet. Having retraced our steps, we follow what proves to be the coast path along a section of boardwalk with reedbeds on either side and which, for a short period, regains the river bank. After Iken Wood, the main route of the path turns south towards Chillesford, but purity has again determined our choice of an alternative called the Orford Loop which eventually rejoins the main route at the Butley Ferry, south of Chillesford. We therefore continue eastward, then inland to Iken, along a road and across some fields, to get back to the Alde about a mile before the point where it turns to the south opposite Aldeburgh on the other bank. It’s here, a couple of hours into today’s walk, that the predicted rain starts to fall, very lightly but steadily. For the next couple of hours, we continue along the side of the river on a raised bank to Orford, passing very few people on the way, but at least spotting a seal at a point opposite King’s Marshes where the Alde becomes the Ore. In general, and despite the continuing rain, the bank is reasonably firm underfoot, but it does become distinctly muddy immediately before and after Orford itself. We’re making good time and we briefly consider stopping for a beer in the town. However, we’re becoming increasingly damp and the rain is due to get heavier, so the idea is quickly shelved. The route beyond Orford takes us around Chantry Point before heading inland across Gedgrave Marshes. It’s here that John, who has left his phone behind (something he realised before we were dropped off at the Maltings) asks Mike to update Helen on our ETA at Butley. Mike starts to do so on a slightly slippy grass bank leading onto the marshes, and immediately comes a cropper. Fortunately, apart from muddy trousers, no damage is done. The path across the marshes leads to a minor road where we go left to pass Gedgrave Hall before turning onto a farm track which leads to the east bank of the Butley River. The ferry isn’t operational at this time of year, but we walk not only the 400 yards along the bank to reach it, but also the length of the jetty so as to stop by the river! Our plan is to start our next trip from the other bank in accordance with the precedent set at Nos Mayo/Warren Point in early 2012, and Appledore/Instow the following year. Whether this comes to pass is somewhat uncertain given likely further COVID restrictions and whether two further ferries (over the Deben and between Felixstowe and Harwich) are operating. We’ll have to wait and see. For now, we walk back along the river bank and part of the way along the farm track where Helen meets us. We remove as much of our wet kit as we can before getting in the car and, as we drive back past Gedgrave Hall, the heavy rain duly arrives. For once, we’re thankful that we made the decision earlier not to stop for a beer! We arrive at Woodbridge station and John and Helen then continue their journey home, whilst Mike, Ben and Gary take their luggage and dry out in the Anchor opposite the station until the next train to Ipswich arrives. From there, Mike returns, via Peterborough to Newark, and Ben and Gary while away 45 minutes in the Station Hotel before catching their train to Liverpool Street.
Postscript – An event worthy of note occurred on day 133. Just as the rain started to fall when we were on the bank of the Alde opposite Aldeburgh, we completed 2,000 miles of our round England walk.
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