Day 106 – Runswick Bay to Robin Hood’s Bay

Mike has joined us again for this outing, and the four of us rendezvous at York station to catch our cab (pre-ordered for 10:35) back to Runswick Bay – although the word “cab” doesn’t adequately convey the nature of the transportation. The BMW in which we were taken to York on day 105 was a bit of a squeeze for four passengers and so Mike has ordered a people carrier for today. But the vehicle which picks us up is more akin to a mini-bus and, indeed, bears the words “Executive Coaches” on the side. We therefore enjoy a considerable amount of space, which is just as well because the driver follows a few more country roads than we experienced on our last trip, so the journey takes somewhat longer. We arrive at Runswick Bay at 12:15 and, with the tide going out, are able to set off along a slipway and onto some shale at the top of the sands to reach a break in the cliffs about half a mile away. This leads to some steps which climb steeply up the hillside to reach the appropriately named High Cliff. We stay on the cliff top – with occasional diversions through farms, fields and, briefly, along a disused railway track – for an hour or so, and then walk down through trees to reach Sandsend. Here, appropriately, we get our first beach action of the day and, because we’ve struck lucky with the tides (not for the first time), we’re able to walk round a headland and stay on the beach for a good two or three miles until we get to Whitby. Alongside the harbour, we encounter the temptation of crab sandwiches, which is not resisted. Equally, having heard that it will take a few minutes for the sandwiches to be prepared, we don’t resist the temptation of whiling away that time by having a pint at the nearby Ship Inn. Duly refreshed, we collect our sandwiches which are eaten as we cross the swing bridge over the mouth of the River Esk and before climbing the Church Stairs (199 of them) up to Whitby Abbey. The coast path runs along the perimeter wall of the Abbey and eventually leads to a holiday park. On leaving the park, we rejoin the cliff top path but, as this continues, Ben becomes uncomfortable with its proximity to the cliff edge and decides to take an inland route which can be accessed from a former Fog Signal Station near Whitestone Point. Gary accompanies him and they walk along a road and over some fields to get to a cycle trail near Hawsker which runs pretty much parallel to the coast all the way to Robin Hood’s Bay. Meanwhile, John and Mike stick to the coastal route and, although this dips down to/rises up from a number of streams, it’s slightly shorter than the inland diversion and they arrive at our overnight stop, Fernleigh B&B, around 6 o’clock and about 20 minutes ahead of Ben and Gary. We are introduced to the comforts of Fernleigh by our hosts, Chris and Jane, which include drizzle cake and bottles of water in the lounge/breakfast room, and millionaire shortbreads in the bedrooms. And when we reconvene in the lounge before popping out for supper, we discover that we also have access to a decanter of sherry which we decide that it would be churlish to ignore by way of aperitif. Chris and Jane have suggested the Grosvenor as a good pub food place to eat, and it’s certainly popular when we get there. All the tables are occupied, but it looks as though some people are coming to the end of their meals and so, for the second time today, we have a drink while we’re waiting, and it proves to be a wait of only a few minutes before a table is available. We’re told that the popularity of the pub this evening is in part explained by the prospect of live music which is due to start at 9 o’clock. The band are setting up as we finish our meal (which matches up to the advance publicity given by Chris and Jane) and, rather than supplementing the bottles of white and red already consumed with music filling our ears, we repair to the Victoria, an equally friendly pub along the road down to the Bay, for a double sticky each. Then back to Fernleigh for a very good kip.