Day 96 – Below Windy Gyle (Barrow Burn) to Kirk Yetholm

A slightly longer entry than usual because, in order to maximise the time available to complete this potentially tricky stretch of the walk (postponed over the winter months) the team assembles the day before at the Sun Inn, Alnmouth. John arrives at lunchtime from Edinburgh, having witnessed Gloucester coming second to Stade Français in the European Challenge Cup. Ben and Gary arrive late in the afternoon from London, Gary having witnessed the first leg of Fulham’s Championship play off semi-final which leads, following the second leg a few days later, to them coming second to Reading. When Ben and Gary arrive, they find John in the bar of the Sun (not a surprise) having a pot of tea (more of a surprise) and decide that a cider and beer respectively will be more welcoming. A stroll around Alnmouth, including discussion of John’s views on wading across the River Aln on our next trip, precedes supper and a relaxed night back at the Sun to prepare for day 96 when we’re picked up by Carol at 9:30. The weather forecast is far from promising – rain, wind and, according to John, wind chill temperatures on the Pennine Way of zero. Four or five layers, to include waterproofs, would seem to be prudent and, based on conditions witnessed on the one hour drive to Barrow Burn, are going to be required. When Carol drops us off shortly after 10:30, the rain has relented slightly, and the wind is brisk at best. Thankfully, it’s blowing from the south east, so it doesn’t unduly inhibit the first 90 minutes or so of the walk which is a long steady climb of nearly 4 miles up to Border Ridge at almost 1,800 feet, where we turn to walk alongside the border fence. The rain, whilst steady, still isn’t too heavy and the wind is now from our right, but the combination of the two, and the consequent low temperature, is clearly going to prove very tiring. Indeed, when we stop for just a few minutes for our first loggage on the ridge, we all notice a distinct drop in body temperature. Fortunately, the ground conditions are better than those which we experienced up here last October in that there are more extensive sections of paving slabs which have been laid, and the other sections are at least reasonably firm under foot. However, after rounding the Cheviot turn to continue north along the border, we soon feel the need to take advantage of the Auchope refuge hut where John supplies energy boost gels (accepted by Gary but rejected by Ben) before we tackle the next climb of nearly 600 feet over the Schil. When we leave the hut after 10 minutes, a new member of the group – a walking pole which Gary has brought with him – is left behind, but this is quickly noticed and John yomps back to retrieve it, with the extra yardage thereby logged causing subsequent data adjustment issues. Ben and Gary proceed at a more sedate pace and John rejoins them before the approach to the Schil. The initial climb is relatively gentle but, as it becomes steeper, our pace slows, markedly in Gary’s case, so John carries his rucksack for the final 100 yards which proves to be a very effective handicapping system. The resultant increase in Gary’s speed and decrease in John’s means that they reach the summit together, a couple of minutes after Ben. Who needs energy gels? By now, the rain has stopped, the wind has weakened, and we are able to enjoy some great views over the hills and down into the valleys. Soon after leaving the Schil, and following a walk of around 7 miles on the ridge, we turn left to follow the border on the Scottish side and start the 4 miles descent to the end (or beginning) of the Pennine Way at Kirk Yetholm. It’s been a hard day. Just over 15 miles have taken some six and a half hours but, given the dreadful forecast, we’ve emerged relatively unscathed. Shortly after 5:15, we get to the Border Inn where somebody who has just completed the Pennine Way doesn’t seem too interested in conversation with John who also finds that a bowl of soup which he’s been hoping to have on arrival by way of warmage won’t be available until 6 o’clock. We content ourselves with a reviving cider (for Ben) and beer and crisps (for John and Gary) before adjourning to check in and freshen up at our B&B for the night, the Farmhouse, about 5 minutes away. We then return to the Border where we’ve booked a table for supper, but John is slightly delayed by having to dry wet clothing in his rucksack. Although the rucksack has a waterproof cover, the clothing wasn’t in separate bags inside. Rookie mistake. He does however secure at the Border, somewhat belatedly, his much anticipated soup (Cullen skink – pronounced as being excellent) before we all tuck into haddock and chips. A post-supper sticky at the bar is taken in the company of the landlord, who regales us with further stories about the New Year Spine Race along the Pennine Way, and also procures the first available log book of recorded Pennine Way walk finishers. This is marked “Book 2” and starts in mid-August 1971, which is slightly frustrating for John who completed the walk whilst at school in early August 1971. He may well have appeared in Book 1 but this was apparently destroyed in a fire! With a degree of disappointment, we leave the Border and get back to the Farmhouse at 9 o’clock.