Comfortable night, and a helpfully early breakfast is
provided by Carole who runs the Albert. Just as helpfully and very generously,
she also provides – at no extra charge – some refuelling rolls and chocolate
for the day. She is somewhat surprised to hear that this will involve us
walking around St Bees Head saying that, after all the recent rain, the tracks
will be very slippy, but she sees us cheerily on our way. In terms of
hospitality and value for money, the Albert has scored very highly. We walk out
of town in a light drizzle which soon clears and there’s no evidence of the
anticipated slippiness on our climb up to the southerly section of St Bees
Head. However, on a slightly downhill – but otherwise perfectly innocent
looking – stretch along the top of the Head, Ben comes a cropper twice in the
space of a few minutes, with the resultant state of his trousers confirming how
muddy the underfoot conditions are. We descend with due care and attention to
the stream which leads into Fleswick
Bay and which marks the
boundary between the South and North Heads. But when we’ve crossed the stream,
the slippiness of the very smooth rock on the north bank sloping very gently
back down to the water gives slippiness a bad name. The only way we’re able to
negotiate it is by slowly sidestepping along the top with our backs to the
stream and clinging on (where necessary/possible) to the branches of bushes
alongside the rock. Eventually, and without undue incident, we climb to the top
of the North Head and continue towards Whitehaven. Although the early morning
drizzle has held off, it’s still cloudy and dull, and the views out to sea are
not particularly inspiring. Apparently the Isle of Man
is out there somewhere. This part of the Cumbria Coastal Way now also forms part
of the England Coast Path which is opening in sections with completion due in
2020 (where will we have reached by then?). We descend from St Bees Head,
passing old pit chimneys to reach the attractive harbour at Whitehaven. The
route out of the town is less attractive, initially alongside the railway and
then joining a road outside Parton. Most days involve a navigational glitch,
and today’s occurs after we’ve left Parton. Having crossed some fields, we need
to go through a short tunnel under a railway bridge to follow a stream and
rejoin the road. However, some works are being carried out to the bridge, and
temporary barriers have been placed at both ends of the tunnel with sacks of
rubble up against them. The ensuing debate on what to do is speedily concluded.
John pulls aside the barriers (we replace them afterwards of course) and,
scrambling over a few sacks, we walk through the tunnel to be greeted by only
mild looks of irritation from the workmen on the other side. For the most part,
the remainder of the day’s walk is away from the sea along enclosed tracks
and/or alongside the railway through Harrington to Workington. We finish on the
southern side of the town so that we can get to Workington station in time for
our train to Carlisle. This mission is duly
accomplished and we catch our mainline trains home from Carlisle, with John
taking the London train as far as Preston, thus enabling us to share a farewell drink or
two.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Leave any comment