Day 41 – Braunton to Mortehoe

Day 41 – Braunton to Mortehoe

All on time at Tiverton, including Colin (or Martin) who gets us to Braunton for a pre-10:30 start. Early fog gives way to sunshine, and it becomes apparent that our walk around the Taw on day 40 would have been quite picturesque if the weather hadn’t been so miserable. Continuing on the Tarka Trail leads us alongside and across Saunton golf course which prompts thoughts of how many courses we have passed, and will have passed by the time we finish the path. (Suggestions in the teens prove to be gross underestimates when John’s subsequent investigations reveal that the total is around 30.) Warm and bright at Saunton Sands where pasties are consumed by John (Moroccan lamb) and Gary (pork and scrumpy). Ben decides it would be safer to abstain, given somewhat dramatic gastric problems over the previous 30 hours. A few clouds have appeared by the time we reach Croyde but, after rounding Baggy Point and arriving at the start of Woolacombe Sand, the blue skies have returned to sufficient effect for ice creams to be deemed appropriate – again by John and Gary only. Ben’s diet is at present restricted to Lucozade and Kit Kat. The good progress we’ve made in perfect weather over not too challenging terrain continues along the 2 miles of Woolacombe Sand. We’ve therefore decided to keep going around Morte Point and walk into Mortehoe from the Rockham Bay side. (There is a pause at Morte Point itself for John to calculate the distance to Lundy with the assistance of three tee pegs, a compass, his hand span and feet, and similar triangles.) By the time we’ve reached The Smugglers Rest, we’ve covered 20 miles, so it’s good to see the reappearance of Rattler in the bar where the company includes George the boxer (dog), and Budge the parrot. Pre-supper drinks for Ben consist of two Bloody Marys, so he’s clearly feeling a bit better – albeit he retires early after eating but before final glass of red wine and sticky.

Day 40 – Instow to Braunton

Day 40 – Instow to Braunton 

Comfortable rooms and an excellent brekker (all at a reasonable price) prove to be the highlights of the day. The dullest section of the walk so far. Very flat along the Tarka Trail by the bank of the River Taw all the way to Barnstaple, over the new bridge, and back along the other bank to Braunton. And such scenery as there might be is spoiled by a very dank and drizzly morning. The forecast is, in fact, for heavy rain which leads to discussion over whether to stop at Braunton or risk a drenching on the extra 5 miles or so to Saunton Sands. Part of the discussion takes place in the Braunton Inn – about a mile short of the village itself – and the 25 minute “rest” there helps answer the question because, as we then walk towards Braunton, the heavy rain duly arrives. We go no further than the village and catch a bus to Barnstaple where a walk back from the rail station into the town for lunch is a further dampening experience. We decide not to give our custom to the frankly horrible Golden Lion on the square, and instead go to a hotel lounge (The Royal and Fortescue) for a couple of ciders and a sandwich. Then back to the rail station where John and Ben catch a train to Exeter and Gary returns to Instow to stay with Mike and Jo.

Addendum 1  

Unusual facts about days 39 and 40: (1) No Rattler consumed – all cider was Stowford Press or Thatcher’s; (2) No stickies consumed – Wayfarer shutting by 10:00 p.m. rather strange; (3) No Colin taken after 11:00 a.m. on day 39, and bus to Barnstaple was the first use of that form of transport since day 2.

Addendum 2

On the day after day 40, Gary taken by Mike and Jo to Crackington Haven to walk the section to Widemouth Bay which he missed on day 36. Excellent weather and a beautiful stretch of coastline make a welcome change from day 40. Only story worthy of note is being overtaken at the top of the very steep descent of steps at Chipman Cliff by a guy who is running that part of the path. The steps are so steep that you can’t see down them but, by the time Gary has tentatively worked his way to the bottom, the runner is at the top of the equally steep ascent at the other side.

Day 39 – Clovelly to Instow

Diversion and delay of Ben’s and Gary’s train to Tiverton – overrunning engineering works between Newbury and Pewsey – gives John the opportunity to complete the Times crossword although none of us can work out why one particular clue leads to the answer “obeisance”. (Ben explains it a few days later with the help of the Times Crossword Club!) Delay also means that, following taxi to Clovelly (Ian not too chatty on this occasion), we don’t get under way until just after 11:00. Bit of rain in the air and, during the first couple of hours, we only catch glimpses of the sea due to much of the path running through woodland. Far more glimpses of pheasants (or should that be pheasant?) if truth be told. Weather gets brighter, but also very gusty, by the time we reach Westward Ho! and, with the tide high, the waves are pretty spectacular. The gusts also separate Ben from his map (his recovery efforts are conducted with minimal urgency) and cause sand in contact lens problems as we enter the dunes by the golf course. Alongside the dunes we encounter a man in a camper van who wants to know if we’ve seen his cockerel. This is not some dodgy Devon euphemism because we have, in fact, seen said cockerel (outside the man’s van two hundred yards earlier), but we can give no information as to its current whereabouts. The van’s tyres then become stuck in the sand, and John is the only good Samaritan among us who is prepared to help. Gary ascertains from sister-in-law Jo that the Appledore/Instow ferry over the Torridge isn’t operating because of the (supposedly) high winds and so, after we’ve rounded the golf course and Northam Burrows, Jo provides a car service from the Seagate pub in Appledore round to the ferry point in Instow. (This is preceded by a drink in the Seagate and an extraordinary conversation with a surly barman as to why he couldn’t mix two different strength ciders into one pint. Against the law apparently.....we bite our tongues!) Walk from Instow ferry point to the Wayfarer is only a few hundred yards, but saves doing it tomorrow. Freshen up and a drink in the bar before meeting Jo and husband Mike for a more than acceptable supper at The Boathouse restaurant . Return to the Wayfarer at 10:00 p.m. to find the pub closed. (See addendum 1 after day 40.) So straight to our rooms for an early night in preparation for the morrow.

Day 38 – Welcombe Mouth to Clovelly

Day 38 – Welcombe Mouth to Clovelly

Comfortable night, although John announces a further finger-burning incident in his room. Ian arrives at 8:10 (bringing 3 bottles of cider for us) and it’s back to Welcombe Mouth for an 8:45 start. Warm and sunny for the first immediate (and steep) climb of the day, but a bit of cloud cools things down for most of the morning. Lundy far clearer today as we progress to Hartland Quay. The further climbs between there and Hartland Point keep reminding us of the refreshment provided by Ian and, by wonderful happenstance, we encounter a couple (Swiss) sitting outside a camper van in the Hartland Point car park who are able to provide a bottle opener. Their hospitality extends to offering muffins to accompany the cider, and it seems churlish to refuse. Duly refreshed, we set off again after 10 minutes along four miles of relatively flat cliff top, followed by a couple of steep(ish) descents and climbs, before finishing at Clovelly just after 3:00. Slight confusion over how to get down to the harbour side pub where Ian will be collecting us, but speedily resolved – albeit the cobbles of the steep hill down to the harbour aren’t the most welcome of underfoot conditions after a 15 mile walk. However, we arrive at the Red Lion in time for cider and crab sandwiches before Ian’s arrival at 3:40. Ben provides the conversation for Ian in the front seat while Gary dozes and John sleeps (but doesn’t snore) in the back. Get to Tiverton just before 5:00 so not long to wait for trains home

Day 37 – Widemouth Bay to Welcombe Mouth

Day 37 – Widemouth Bay to Welcombe Mouth

Arrival at Exeter to rendezvous with new taxi man who, happily, is called Trevor. Far more efficient than Alf in choice of route back to Widemouth, so trip completed by 11:00 despite a downpour for almost the entirety of the drive through North Cornwall. Fortunately, the rain eases by the time we get under way and, although it returns as we arrive in Bude, this serves to justify the shelter of an early lunch (crab sandwiches and Rattlers) at Life’s a Beach. We leave while it’s still raining rather than having a supplementary “rattle”, and again the rain eases within half an hour and the afternoon walk takes place in relatively fair weather. We get beyond our first possible stopping point at Morwenstow but, following several climbs and descents in quick succession (and early sightings through the murk of Lundy) decide to finish around 5:15 at Welcombe Mouth. Collected by Trevor’s cousin, Ian, who delivers us to Dylan’s B&B in Bude. Mine host a tad irritated by a recently departed guest having smoked in one of the rooms earmarked for us, but we take it anyway. Good supper with Argentine Malbec at the close-by Hebasca – despite John burning a finger on his skewer of prawns – followed by one large sticky (Japanese). 

Day 36 – Boscastle to Widemouth Bay (via Crackington Haven)

Day 36 – Boscastle to Widemouth Bay (via Crackington Haven)

Back on the walk just after 8:45 and, straight away, a navigational glitch gets us onto a narrow ledge on quite a high cliff. Bit of scramblage up a grassy bank and we regain the path, but the next hour or so proves difficult for Gary (not enough water taken on board??) who becomes the first temporary withdrawal from the walk by taking the road to Crackington Haven and avoiding a couple of climbs on the path itself – one later reported to be the longest/steepest of the trip to date. The party is reunited at Crackington’s Coombe Barton Inn and the prudent decision is reached that Gary should remain there and await Alf whilst John and Ben progress towards Bude. Said wait and progress are longer than anticipated due to Alf having health and traffic problems en route. By the time he gets to Crackington, John and Ben have just about reached Widemouth Bay where they’re duly collected. However, the delays have been such that departures from Exeter (again three train with Gary going to Barnstaple) take place around 7:00 p.m. rather than 5:00 p.m. 

Day 35 – Port Gaverne to Boscastle

Day 35 – Port Gaverne to Boscastle

A three train arrival at Exeter with Gary travelling from Teignmouth. LM2 unavailable (wife in hospital) but, through him, have arranged substitute Colin called Alf who gets us to Port Gaverne in time for an 11:20 start. Prefaced, however, by a return to the Port Gaverne Hotel for a pint of Rattler (or a half for the “moderating influencer”). A few climbs when we do get under way and, for the first time for a considerable period, we make a lunchtime stop at the Port William, Trebarwith Strand. No subsequent problem with the remaining climbs past Tintagel and round to Boscastle. The Riverside Hotel is our overnighter and, for once, we freshen up before the first evening cider at a neighbouring hotel. Supper back at the Riverside pretty good, followed by one large sticky and kip.