The
consensus is that this is not so much a "boutique" establishment (as
advertised) but more a pub with well furnished and decorated rooms. The
breakfast isn't too bad, but perhaps a tad disappointing given that The Farndon
is one of the most expensive places at which we've stayed. Still, it has the
great advantage of convenience, avoiding the cost of Colin yesterday evening
and this morning. Just a few minutes' walk back down the High Street to the
bridge and the beginning of a day when, for most of the time, the Dee Way
actually follows the banks of the...er...Dee which today has mist rising from
it on a beautifully crisp, sunny morning. The first six miles are along the
east side of the river past a fish farm (where our navigation goes slightly
awry) and, to quote the estate agent wording of the guide book, "featuring
riverside wooden chalets of various designs" (nice). To check the Farndon
owner's comment yesterday evening about water levels, we've done our own very
basic calculation of the movement of "ap atom" (long story) from the
source of the Dee. However, the accuracy of that calculation does depend on
having a vague idea of the length of the river, and all our estimates prove to
be embarrassingly wide of the mark. A more reliable check is through a visual
inspection which reveals that, on this topic at least, the owner may have known
what he was talking about - the river level is now very high. We pass Aldford
and cross to the west of the Dee where the next hour of the walk is on a path
between the river and the boundary of the Eaton Estate, the not inconsiderable
family home of the Duke of Westminster. The side of Chester to which the path
eventually leads also seems quite prosperous - boathouses, riverside
bars/restaurants and smart looking houses - and, after passing bridges leading
into the city centre, we reach our second racecourse (London buses?), the
Roodee. And it doesn't simply involve a "good view" of the course
like yesterday, but a semi-circumnavigation on a path along the back straight
and behind the stables. After a brief discussion about how far to walk in order
to maximise convenience/timings on our next trip, we go through the Old Port
and a short way along the Shropshire Union Canal towards Saughall. Short enough
that we can walk back to the centre in 30 minutes, stopping at a pub on the
road to the station which is of such a "standard" as to make us
abandon it after one pint and sample the delights of the station buffet
instead. Sufficient time there for a cider and sandwiches, and sufficient time
on the train to share half a bottle of red before John disembarks to change
trains at Crewe, and Ben and Gary continue (with further half bottles of red)
to London.
Day 61 - Overton Bridge to Farndon
Back to our
full complement for the next couple of days, although no immediate plans for
Gary to do the sections he missed on days 59 and 60. Early start, with everyone
getting to Birmingham shortly after 8:00. Unfortunately, due to lack of admin
coordination during the preceding few weeks, neither Ben/Gary nor John is aware
of their similar arrival times at New Street and arrangements have been made to
meet not there but at Stafford. Track side problems delay this rendezvous - and
the onward journey to Crewe/Chester - by half an hour or so but eventually, and
courtesy of Colin from Chester station, we reach the pub at Overton Bridge
(which is summarily eschewed) and are "on piste" just before 11:30.
For the most part, a wholly unremarkable day's walking under grey skies along
an ill-defined and largely non-signposted route. It seems that John is
constantly having to consult the logger to determine the direction we should be
taking across what prove to be rather wet fields. Also, very little is seen of
the Dee itself which keeps meandering, in a series of U-bends, away from the
walk, and/or is shielded by embankments. And when it does come into view, its
level seems surprisingly low. So perhaps just three points of anything
approaching note. First, a brief and early pit stop at the Royal Oak just
outside Bangor-on-Dee for beer and crisps during which it is established that
the time previously given by John for today's sunset is about 35 minutes later
than actual sunset, so we'll need to get a wiggle on to reach Farndon before
nightfall. Secondly, we get a good view of Bangor-on-Dee racecourse, and
realise that it's the first currently used racecourse (i.e. excluding the
former Kington racecourse on day 55) which we've seen during all of our days
walking. And thirdly, despite the efficiency of the logger, we take the wrong
route across one particular field and, in trying to rejoin the so-called path,
we cross a grassy area which is so wet that we occasionally sink to almost knee
level. As a result, Ben's and Gary's socks and feet become exceedingly damp - a
fate from which John is saved by his "fetching" puttees. However, in
the final hour of the day on the approach to Holt, we at long last join a path
alongside the river which eventually brings us to the bridge in Farndon from
where it's only a short stroll up the High Street to our overnight resting
place, imaginatively called The Farndon. A cheery welcome from the owner
includes the opportunity to start drying our footwear in front of a log fire
whilst we take on board the first beer of the evening. The owner certainly
likes to chat, but some of his rather confused comments about the local beers
lead us to question how much of the chat has any foundation! When we mention
the low level of the Dee, he says that a period of heavy rainfall (which
occurred over the weekend) doesn't affect this stretch of the river for about
36 hours. We'll be able to test the accuracy of this tomorrow. In the meantime,
baths and showers (John's shower apparently not of the highest standard) and
good food and wine are followed by a comfortable night.
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