Day 34 – Padstow to Port Gaverne 4.6.13

Empty champagne bottle indicates that someone did well at the casino evening. Good brekker, and prompt arrival of LM2 enables us to get to Padstow in time for the second ferry of the day and over to Rock by 8:20. Beautiful day and it’s low tide so we save some time by walking along the beach past St Enodoc to Daymer Bay then back onto the cliff top to Polzeath. More beach action and rock climbing (or scrambling), but beyond Port Quin, we have a bit of a shock. After several days walking with short and/or not particularly steep inclines, we encounter a few long and steep ups and downs. Our pace drops, but we still make sufficiently good time to stop in Port Isaac for postcards at the second shop we see – the first is being used to film an episode of Doc Martin with Martin Clunes and Ben is politely told to replace his chosen postcard in the rack as it is  a prop– and reach Port Gaverne in time for a leisurely lunch. This is fortunate, because The Port Gaverne Hotel is a wonderfully hospitable place serving excellent crab sandwiches, something called blanche bait (whitebait with more fish) and a variety of ciders. We are able to linger before LM2 collects us for the return to Bodmin. He seems to think that Ben resembles Martin Clunes, and despite him (LM2) chatting for the world, John still manages to have a few zeds in the front seat. We agree to use LM2’s services on our next trip when it transpires that, if we’re picked up at Exeter, it won’t be much more expensive overall and will enable us to get to Port Gaverne by 11:00 – about an hour earlier than going via Bodmin. It now does feel that we’re on the homeward stretch, but the steep cliffs/valleys of Tintagel, Bude and North Devon await.    

Day 33 Bedruthan Steps to Padstow 3.6.13

Again Bristol is the rail meeting point, and we get to Carnewas via Bodmin in reasonably good time. Turns out that today’s Colin lives near Padstow, so he could well be Les’s successor for the next couple of days. En route to Carnewas, he points out a large low flying passenger jet and says that pilots are learning how to take off and land a Dreamliner at Newquay airport which, apparently, has one of the longest runways in the country. We see the plane frequently over the next 24 hours. Don’t they use flight simulators these days? Lovely weather conditions once more (even Gary’s in shorts – or three quarter longs) and beaches aplenty through Pentire and Porthcothan to Constantine Bay and Trevose Head. We reach Trevone, where we’re booked to stay, by about 4 o’clock, so plenty of time to continue around the headland and into Padstow where we’ve arranged for Les Mk 2 (“LM2”) to collect us and take us back to the Well Parc Hotel in Trevone. Further arrangements made for him to pick us up tomorrow morning at 8:00 (and when we finish at lunchtime). A few free samples of beer from barrels used at a recent “tasting” event are the prelude to the customary further drinks and a pretty good supper. Some kind of casino event taking place in one of the bars which we manage to avoid.

Day 32 – Holywell Bay to Bedruthan Steps 23.4.13

A prompt start on a bright morning, and it’s over the dunes (why isn’t there a golf course here?) to the coastline. Bit of beach action as we approach the River Gannell not really knowing how far upstream we’ll have to walk in order to cross it. Fortunately, the tide is reasonably low and therefore, although the first tidal bridge is closed for repair, we are able to de-shod and walk through the stream. Is this really the first time that we’ve paddled on the walk? More beach action along Fistral (looks really nice in the spring sunshine before all the holidaymakers and weekenders arrive) and through Newquay where postcards are bought and there’s a bit of rock climbing to get back up to the path after the final beach/bay. (We could have used a zip wire to cross the bay instead....in theory so far as two of us are concerned!) After Newquay, it’s the length of Watergate Bay and on towards the Carnewas NT tea rooms where we’ve decided to finish having ascertained that it sells crab sandwiches – and that it isn’t licensed. We also need to arrange a Colin pick up. A pub en route to Carnewas in Mawgan Porth addresses both issues. We arrive at Carnewas with time to have crab sandwiches before Colin arrives to take us to Bodmin Parkway. 

Day 31 – Porthtowan to Holywell Bay 22.4.13

Break with tradition in that our morning rail meeting point is at Bristol rather than Exeter on slightly later trains than previously. However, still time for a pasty in Redruth before returning to The Unicorn – which is simply our starting point rather than a place of refreshment on this occasion. Some rain in the air, and the path from Porthtowan round St Agnes Head and on towards Perranporth, whilst easy, is very bleak, going past and through disused tin mines and quarries. Bit of beach action at Perranporth, but still pretty dull weather wise as we continue along(side?) Perran Beach towards Holywell and the St Piran’s Inn. We’re the only guests there, and whilst the owner/manager is welcoming, it’s probably fair to say that he has a slightly inflated opinion of the place and of his menu. It’s not bad, but not wonderful. However, like the Penellen, it has the huge advantage of being very close to the path, so we’ll be able to start early tomorrow.

Day 30 – Hayle to Porthtowan 19.3.13

Lovely day to start with, and pretty easy walking conditions past Gwithian and round Godrevy point. But as we get beyond Portreath and approach Porthtowan, the clouds roll in and the rain hits us about 30 minutes shy of shelter (i.e. the pub). For the last 10 minutes as we descend into Porthtowan, it’s very heavy indeed, so we enter The Unicorn looking like the proverbial drowned rats. Fortunately, the bar is large and empty, and Colin isn’t due for 45 minutes, so we have the space and time to dry off, change some clothing, and have a couple of drinks and a sandwich before being collected and taken to Redruth station. About time to stop mentioning the time at which the train left Penzance!

Day 29 – Trevail to Hayle 16.3.13

This is better. Train to St Erth on time, collected by Marathon Man and back to Trevail Farm to start at scheduled time on a clear day. Make good time to St Ives, doffing our caps to Alba as we pass. Zig zag over the railway branch line (how many trains did we see?) past Carbis Bay and through golf course. Making sufficiently good time that we stop for an early eveninger at a pub near Hayle, before proceeding to our overnight stop a mile or so further on – the Penellen B&B. Right on the coast with great views back over St Ives Bay on what is initially a bright evening. Walk back to Hayle via the Bucket of Blood hostelry (had been recommended, but not a particularly genial mine host) to an Indian restaurant for supper. Rain comes in on the way there, but Colin back to B&B.

Day 28 – Morvah to Trevail 26.2.13

After brekker, collected by a cab Johnny who is in training for the London Marathon and chats a bit about it! Still, he gets us back to Morvah and we identify somewhere for him to collect us – a place called Trevail Farm. Not a huge distance from Morvah, but we anticipate slow going today. And it is. Glorious scenery but very rugged and rocky – and, like yesterday, much boggage. Past Zennor, but not as far as St Ives, we meet Marathon Man as planned at Trevail Farm. Plenty of time to get to St Erth. John has announced his New Year resolution not to drink as much on our return train journeys, but little evidence of same on the train (14:00 from Penzance) to catch his connection at Taunton.

Day 27 – Nanquidno to Morvah 25.2.13

Bad start to the year. For the first time (remarkably) our train from London is delayed so we miss the connection at Exeter and spend some considerable time in Newton Abbot’s Pumpkin Cafe waiting for the next train which is 30 minutes late. As a result, we don’t get to Penzance until nearly 2:00 pm – 75 minutes behind schedule. Les in good form. Takes us back to Nanquidno where we bid our fond farewells recognising that it might be a bit unreasonable to expect him to chauffeur us further along the north Cornish coastline! After taking a wrong turn on our way back down to the path (bad start again) we set off along a rather boggy stretch – not surprising given the weather of late – but on yet another basically dry day which is more than surprising. We round Cape Cornwall three months late, and then it’s on past Pendeen Watch to Morvah where the day ends. We wait by the church for cab Johnny to arrive and take us to St Ives (although given where we’ve finished, Penzance is closer) and check in at the Queen’s. This particular St Austell Brewery establishment doesn’t do supper on Mondays and it’s only after a bit of persuasion and a couple of phone calls to the chef that we manage to secure a (relatively) early breakfast. However, the supper issue is more than rectified by an excellent fish meal (or “gourmet menu”) at a quayside restaurant called Alba followed by stickies back at the Queen’s.

Day 26 – Treen Cliff to Nanquidno 14.11.12

Our last walking day of 2012 begins with Les (what a star) collecting us again from the B&B and driving us back to where we joined the road from the coast path the previous evening. Our intention to get to Cape Cornwall always looked a bit optimistic and we agree with Les that our lunchtime collection point will need to be confirmed. The early morning weather is again a tad dull but as we get beyond Porthcurno and round Land’s End (significant in terms of the walk, but otherwise not particularly inspiring) things improve and, as we approach Sennen, it’s almost balmy! As anticipated, Cape Cornwall proves to be several thousand steps too far, and we end the year near Nanquidno, fighting our way through undergrowth to reach a track and then arriving at a road junction just before Les. Drive back to Penzance, agree with Les that we’ll see him in February, and catch the 14:00 train.

Day 25 – Penzance to Treen Cliff 13.11.12

Not the best of mornings – dull with threatening clouds – but it is November and the rain holds off for most of the day. Again, the early sunset could be a problem and we therefore avoid inspecting Gwynne’s cottage in Mousehole even though it would involve just a 200 yard diversion. After Mousehole, progress becomes quite slow because of damp/slippy underfoot conditions and, as on day 23, we finish the day in darkness just beyond Treen Cliff. From there, the walk up the road to Treen is undertaken with head torch (more to be seen than to see), but at last we arrive at the Logan Rock Inn for ciders, discussions about local mayoral elections, and meeting the estimable Les, who becomes our chauffeur for the next 24 hours. This initially involves driving us to our B&B, picking us up 45 minutes later to get back to the Logan Rock for supper, and then – after some wonderful cod and a few more drinks – returning us to the B&B. John lends his shirt to the landlady of the pub who knows Rob Cook for a photo.

Day 24 – Porthleven to Penzance 23.10.12

According to one of the guidebooks, “This is an easy stretch and could be undertaken by anyone able to cross stiles and walk along a beach”. Our translation of this to “Even your granny could do it” proves to be somewhat inaccurate, more because of the rough nature of the terrain than its steepness. After a number of picturesque coves, two or three believed sightings of St Michael’s Mount prove to be illusory, but we eventually get there – or at least to Marazion on the coast, from where the walk to Penzance is indeed granny friendly, principally along a cycle path. After crab sandwich and postcard admin, John and Ben catch the train (the 14:00 in case you’re wondering) while Gary waits in Penzance for Sal and Tom

Day 23 – Lizard to Porthleven 22.10.12

If confirmation was needed of the exorbitant fare charged by black cab Johnny, it is provided by the £40 charged by mini cab Johnny from Camborne back to Lizard. And he replies politely to John’s questions about crime levels and drug taking in the area – although prefacing those replies with the question “Are you a policeman?”. And he waits while we pick up some pasties from Ann’s (pre-ordered from the train) before taking us to the Lifeboat Station car park. Fortunate, yet again, with the weather but, now that we’re well into the autumn, it’s the early fading light which might conspire against us. The Lizard Peninsula is duly ticked off and, after Mullion and Gunwalloe, it’s gratifying that the final stretch of the day is over Porthleven sands because we reach the Porthleven end in almost total darkness, a good thirty minutes after sunset. The Harbour Inn (a St Austell Brewery establishment) has the benefit of convenience, but the food leaves something to be desired. John is less than complimentary about his breakfast kipper the following morning!

Day 22 – Porthallow to Lizard 18.9.12

One of the best stretches we’ve done (and there have been a few) on a lovely day. Past Porthoustock and through Coverack and Cadgwith. Bit late to reach our intended destination at the southern tip of the peninsula but, by baling out at the Lifeboat Station on the eastern side, our route into Lizard takes us past a more than acceptable pasty emporium, Ann’s Pasties. Happy, therefore, for our arrival at the Top House Inn to be slightly delayed but, following the customary reviving cider, not so happy that the cab we’ve booked to get us to Camborne costs £60 allegedly because a black cab (which it was) is always charged at the rate of £3 per mile. The equally customary ciders on the train are accordingly even more reviving than usual.

Day 21 – Falmouth to Porthallow 17.9.12

Rails converge once again (albeit well before Truro) to get us back to Falmouth. Hasn’t improved since we were last here, but the vistas get better as we round Pendennis Point and continue towards Maen Porth. Two further river crossings were always going to be possible flies in the timing ointment and, although we have no problems with the Helford ferry, we have to accept the impurity of cutting across the next headland in order to catch the last ferry over Gillan Harbour. Purity is recaptured at Nare Point and Nare Head before arriving at our Porthallow overnighter. 

Day 20 – Veryan to Falmouth 13.7.12

Fortunately, a far better day to see the various beaches around the bay to Porthscatho and on towards St Anthony Head. Ferries required to get to St Mawes and from there to Falmouth. A little bit of running and shouting (by John surprise surprise) ensure that we catch the ferry to Falmouth and don’t screw up our schedule. Still some time for a drink in Falmouth but – and this is probably “a first” – we don’t take advantage of it. This reflects our view of Falmouth rather than a lack of thirst, so we spend 15 minutes at the station re-shodding whilst waiting for the branch line train to Truro where our paths (or rails) diverge so that Gary can join Sal and Anna on train to St Ives. Without Gary’s moderating influence Ben and John have far too much to drink on the train.

Day 19 – Mevagissey to Veryan 12.7.12

Back via St Austell to Mevagissey on a damp morning which becomes even damper. First day of the walk when it’s rained without any real let up, so we don’t see Gorran Haven and Dodman Point at their best – in fact we probably don’t see them at all. By the time we’ve found our way around Veryan Bay and approached Nare Head, we are all distinctly wet. Fortunately, the hospitality of our hostess at the B&B in Veryan extends to allowing us to dry out (or attempting to dry out) our clothes in a utility room. Good meal at the New Inn.

Day 18 – Polkerris to Mevagissey 29.5.12

Round from Polkerris to Par sands which were quickly followed by a wander through Par itself. Not very picturesque, but a local hairdressers called Teezy Weezy’s  prompts several minutes considering Grand National winners. A golf course and hotel (not the first one on the walk which John thinks he might have frequented) improve the scenery, then past St Austell and Pentewan to Mevagissey for drinks in pub on the square waiting for a cab to take us back to St Austell. Pasties (and another drink) to while away the time before getting to station for trains home.

Day 17 – Looe to Polkerris 28.5.12

Pasties in Looe (in which local gulls take a not insignificant degree of interest) mark a rather damp beginning to the day. Clears up sufficiently to enjoy the walk through Polperro, and on to the ferry from Polruan over to Fowey. Seems churlish to ignore the hospitality (i.e. cider) in a local cafe, before continuing around Gribbin Head to our overnight stop in farmhouse in Tregaminnion near Polkerris where we ate

 

Day 16 – From Rame to Looe 27.4.12

Very hot day (Gary’s excuse and he’s sticking to it). Along Whitsand Bay and then through the Tregantle Ranges where, once again, we may not have taken the most direct route. By the time we arrive at Portwrinkle John has to make a slight diversion to top up water supplies notwithstanding which, by the time we reach Downderry and John’s Uncle Roger’s, Ben is suggesting that the green screens might be needed for Gary. Despite a very tempting offer by Roger to give us a lift in his car to Liskeard, we struggle manfully on to Looe where pasties are consumed by all, supplies purchased from a service station, and John hoses down two halves of Rattler at a pub next to the station during the less than 5 minute wait for the shuttle train to Liskeard.

Day 15 – Noss Mayo to Rame 26.4.12

Much more irritating start than on day 14. Colin from Plymouth to Noss Mayo, to find that ferry over the Yealm to Warren Point had “gone technical”. Half an hour in the pub, only to hear that problem won’t be resolved in foreseeable future. So Colin back towards Plymouth and then down the other side of the Yealm to Warren Point. Some time made up by catching the Mount Batten ferry, but still a bit of a rush through Plymouth (best way to see it really), including almost a run to catch the second of two further ferries and reach Cornwall (Cremyll). Through Mount Edgecumbe Country Park before finishing at between Rame Head and Captain BBlakes Point . Overnighter at a farm house at Wringford Down, to include walk over field to get to pub in Cawsand for supper. Walk back involved incident between Ben and a ditch

Day 14 – Wonwell to Noss Mayo 29.3.12

Slightly irritating start, due to directions from mine host not being sufficiently clear and/or misunderstood! In either event, the again expected non-ferry caused diversion around the River Erme conducted in a rather zig zag fashion, at least on the inland stretch. Far more direct on return back towards the coast, albeit involving possible trespass through a country estate, and a bit of rock climbing at not sufficiently low tide. End the day at Noss Mayo and a refresher or two at the Swan, over the inlet at Newton Ferrers. Problem for Colin picking us up due to large vehicle doing overhead works on narrow lanes, but ultimately successful, although delays result in John missing train at Plymouth. (Nothing to do with agreeing to share Colin with some character who was also drinking at Swan, and dropping him off on the way.)

Day 13 – Hope Cove to Wonwell 28.3.12

Train to Totnes, then Colin to Hope Cove to get 2012 under way. Not too long before first cider (and crab sandwich for some) at the Sloop at Bantham before a lengthy – but expected – diversion around the River Avon in the absence of ferries before Easter. Views of Burgh Island and through Bigbury before finishing at Wonwell and thence to the Dolphin at Kingston for overnight stop. Comfortable rooms in annex, and welcoming bar. Good start to the year.