Day 12: Start Point to Outer Hope

Surprise, surprise, the dawn reveals a far easier and clearer route back to the path than last night’s orienteering course. And, amazingly for the beginning of November and our final walk of the year, it’s a bright and sunny day giving some wonderful views across Lannacombe Bay and around Prawle Point. Indeed, after catching the ferry at Salcombe and continuing round to North Sands, it’s warm enough to sit outside the excellent establishment that is the Winking Prawn eating a bucket of the eponymous crustacean and drinking a reviving glass of something non-eponymous. We are joined there by John’s chum, Richard, who walks with us for the first hour or so of the afternoon around Bolt Head before leaving us at The Warren to return over the fields to North Sands. The weather and scenery are still wonderful on the approach to Outer Hope, an area familiar to Ben from a recent family holiday. Slight uncertainty in Hope over where to meet our pre-ordered Colin, but no significant delay and we’re back to Totnes in good time for trains home.  

Day 11: Dartmouth to Start Point

It has been established since the last trip that the (supposed) rock star who was killed by the falling bale of hay near Totnes was someone from the Electric Light Orchestra. No such fascinating local titbits of news from today’s Colin on the way back to Dartmouth. Weather looking miserable on the hills as we pass the no doubt very sociable Dartmouth Club de Petanque, and no sign of a break in the clouds when we arrive at the town quayside in a light but persistent drizzle. So once we’re under way, we don’t see the local sights at their best – in fact we don’t see Dartmouth Castle at all because the path “diverts” past it. At least the drizzle has stopped by the time we reach Stoke Fleming, and Blackpool Sands are traversed in the dry, but it’s still cloudy and dank. Onwards past Strete and down the long stretch of Slapton Sands, refreshment was no doubt taken, perhaps in Torcross, but at the time of re-writing this (nearly two years on) memory is slightly dimmed. By contrast, the clouds must have lifted during the afternoon because Start Point lighthouse is viewed against relatively bright skies. But we’re now up against early sunset times and, when we finish for the day, it’s somewhat darker than we would wish and the route from the path to our accommodation at Down Farm is less than clear. One assumes that the route we take isn’t the prescribed one because it involves scaling a barbed wire fence and a couple of walls before trudging hopefully across a field and then, at long last, seeing a light which proves to be from a torch held by the farmer who has come out to find us. His concern is matched by his family’s very welcome overnight hospitality.  

Day 10: Elberry Farm to Dartmouth

Beautiful day and a section of the path where we stayed very close to the sea. Quickly apparent that plans to get to Stoke Fleming may need to be revised. Quite a few climbs which became progressively more difficult for some (or one) of us. After not much more than 12 miles in 6 hours, decision to lunch in Kingswear (The Ship as recommended by local coastguards). Excellent fish. Landlord problem with lobster and sand eels. Ferry over to Dartmouth. Chatty cabby to Totnes but didn’t know Kevin the Torch. Dartmouth Naval College, Dartmouth Golf Club and bale of hay killing rock star all discussed. Cuppa at Totnes station before trains      home.

Day 9: Teignmouth to Elberry Farm

Morning dry but dull. Chippers from Chipperville 2 on train from Dawlish Warren to Teignmouth. Teignmouth to Shaldon ferry. Told by a Coast Path veteran that next major difficult section wouldn’t be till Bude – ho ho. Lots of ups and downs en route to Torquay, but handled ok. Rain mid afternoon, and quite a long time to get round Torquay. Lunch restricted to flapjack then ice cream in Torquay some of which was left on the prom. Early supper at Elberry Farm therefore more than welcome. Pre ordered Boddingtons and Shiraz supplemented by port. £45 (all in) a bit of a bargain

Day 8: Budleigh Salterton to Teignmouth

Away early. Further golf course outside Budleigh. Lovely morning/views despite rifle range and slightly upmarket caravan/fixed mobile home park. Discuss Gwynne. Into Exmouth. Quite a few joggers/cyclists (and swimmers?). Too early for chippers. Early for first ferry, so bacon sarnies (not for Ben) in cafe. Almost completed Times crossword on ferry – problem over clue involving Blue Square football? Chipperville 2 – holiday camp – in Dawlish Warren, but otherwise excellent walk through to Teignmouth. Swift drink before John’s train. Ben and I to Newton Abbot for a couple of further drinks before Ben meeting up with Cath and kids, and me home.

Day 7: Seaton to Budleigh Salterton

Again, overcast start but developed into a good day. Hilly terrain but great scenery – described as “soft” by someone walking in other direction. Lunch at Sidmouth (I think) at second choice of cafe because first choice had stopped serving food by the time we arrived. First evidence of Ben’s carbohydrate free diet. Farmhouse at Budleigh Salterton. Didn’t know that cuppa and biscuits which were produced on arrival could be so welcome. Very spacious and comfortable. Excellent supper at pub in Budleigh.

Day 6: West Bay to Seaton

Overcast morning getting gradually wetter, until pretty heavy rain at lunch in Lyme Regis after walk over golf course on ladies’ day. Odd/unwelcoming pub? Baguettes took long time to arrive from basement – disturbingly close to toilets. Damp underfoot on the undercliff during afternoon leading to minor slippage close to Seaton. Colin pick up from golf club (bit of a golf course day – Lyme Regis; Axe Cliff/Seaton) and drive to Axminster station. Station cafe closed. Chippers at bus stop. Visit to local Tesco where it took strangely long time to find cans of cider.

Day 5: Ferrybridge to West Bay

Views of Chesil Bank (not beach) for most of morning. Lunch at Abbotsbury where somebody on ground awaiting ambulance was still there when we left. Er...can’t remember much more until West Bay. Beer at pub/B&B; supper at Riverside Restaurant; more drinks at pub/B&B (finished off a bottle of malt?). Perhaps one or two too many given presence of curious character in bar supposedly trying to get to Weymouth.

Day 4: Weymouth/Ferrybridge/Isle of Portland/Ferrybridge

Walk to Ferrybridge. Economics of running B&B. Over causeway. Windsurfing tips from John. Around Portland. Young offenders institution; prison; good terrain for golf course; Portland Bill; crab salad (excellent). After lunch, guard dogs and splendid views of Chesil Beach (just as well given day 5 infra). Back from Ferrybridge to Weymouth along disused railway line. Beer near station before train home. Down at heel pub with landlord, dog, and not much else. Dodgy Carling. Should have had cider like Ben and John.

Day 3: Kimmeridge to Chipperville 1 (Weymouth)

Colin from Wareham back to Kimmeridge, and then over the range. Terrain hilly but good views. Raining by lunch at Lulworth Cove (pebble beach and pasties on the hoof). Durdle Door, Osmington Mills and finally to Chipperville. Small B&B under new ownership. Supper at pub where biggest decision was where to sit (determined by what was on various TV’s – football/Norwich?).

Day 2: St Alban’s Head to Kimmeridge 6th April 2011

Short stroll in beautiful weather to eastern edge of gunnery range. BP nodding donkey. Discovered capacity of oil road tanker. Questions raised over economics of oil production, refining and transportation which haven’t as yet been satisfactorily answered. Refreshment at cafe in Kimmeridge (no pubs) then off piste walk over hills (Purbeck Way?) to Corfe Castle. Views over Poole Harbour. Bus back to Wareham. Trains a shambles

Day 1: South Haven Point to St Alban’s Head 5th April 2011

On time at Bournemouth but discovered Lulworth Gunnery Range wouldn’t be open for day 2. Colin to Sanbanks and bit breezy on ferry. Struggle to find early stages of walk (beach or dunes?) but relatively easy start. Lunch at pub in Swanage. Wind picked up in afternoon. Decided not to leave path at Winspit for Worth Maltravers B&B but to continue round St Alban’s Head to West Hill which meant we encountered first steep upper and downer at end of day. Bit of a walk to B&B. Tucker, then spent evening at Square & Compass (the single most identifiable symbol of freemasonry apparently). Cider, cider brandy, Spanish food, and over attentive hounds. First airing of who’s won 90+ international rugby caps quiz.